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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/26/22 in all areas

  1. Okay. That works too. But there's no need to guess or research. I have swapped MT and AT ECU's, and done engine/trans swaps. There's one pin on the car side connector that determines automatic or manual: *without* that pin the ECU expects and runs as an automatic ECU *with* the pin, it runs manual All ECU's are the same, with no automatic or manual distinction, and the ECU adjusts accordingly based on that pin/wiring. The manual trans ECU you buy will be the same ECU as an automatic. The *only* difference is your body side ECU connector has one extra pin "telling" the ECU what it is. So when you convert an automatic transmission subaru to manual - you swap the transmission and then just address that one pinout, by grounding that one pin - to "tell" the ECU it's now a manual. It's that simple. And so is buying a manual trans ECU!
    2 points
  2. Roadside assistance only available in New England ;-)
    1 point
  3. Is it leaking? I can read your post two different ways….”I can’t fix this exhaust leak…” or “I thought it was an exhaust leak but maybe it’s something else ….” which one is it? Use hands or paper immediately after starting a cold engine and you have a short time to run hands or paper around the entire circumference of the exhaust and work front to back of the vehicle to look for leaks. Might have to try a couple times. Y pipe donut gaskets are troublesome. Grind the exhaust housing where the gasket sits down to remove rust and make smooth with die grinder. Use new bolt and spring hardware from Subaru. Heat shields vibrating? Axles. Inner joints are the typical source if it’s doing it under load. Often just repacking with fresh grease will fix it. The old grease may be gone or pour out of the boot like soup.
    1 point
  4. Installed the idler bearing last night. Tolerances were a bit tight pressing it into the pulley but it slid onto the compressor hub properly. I adjusted the gap between the clutch and the pulley and now it's ready when re-install time arrives. Today, I'll work on the related mounting brackets and the alternator. Those just need a good cleaning I hope.
    1 point
  5. new tires? if lug nuts tight try swapping tires back to front. see if noise travels with tire. possibly defective tire. common things occur commonly.
    1 point
  6. It was "fine" back in 2010. Unfortunately physics and reality have warped significantly in 12 years and now it is possible to annihilate the visible universe if you do this. It's actually quite dangerous - an intern at my shop accidentally destroyed a good part of the city of Portland a while back when the cam slipped about half a tooth and he put it back...... he was summarily dismissed and things got better after a few days. I'm told he still has a severe hangnail that's stubbornly remained untreatable despite visits to numerous specialists in Austria. GD
    1 point
  7. AFAIK they were not a separate part from the glass itself. All that stuff is no longer available (NLA). You'll probably have to make them yourself. GD
    1 point
  8. Just an update - The gas tank I ordered out of a 91 loyale seems to be an exact (or exact enough) replacement to my 87 gas tank and the fuel sending unit looks identical. Also, I had to replace the cluster in mine because the fault was actually the gas gauge itself, and not the sending unit. Hope that helps someone out there.
    1 point
  9. even here, I miss it as much in winter as in summer. I drove an '81 Honda Civic wagon for over 10 years with broken a/c (no money to fix during those year) - not fun in August....but I survived.
    1 point
  10. This is great! A community member is sharing their brat with me while I move into a house that requires 4x4 to get up the driveway. This is all information that is good to have.
    1 point
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