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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/28/22 in all areas

  1. Are you talking about the stub axles? It's a tossup, some are spring clipped and you can just yank them off. Some are circlipped, no other way than opening the trans. The old one's broken anyways, cant hurt trying to yank them out. Put the cups and roll pin back on, pry at them and see if they pop out.
    1 point
  2. Time to close the loop on this - I had too much going on last fall and it sat over the winter. In retrospect, I'd run down a rabbit hole and gotten lost, thinking that out-of-range manifold vacuum might be affecting injector rail pressure, and that bad vacuum may be a product of maladjusted valves - all of which was just getting too arcane. So I backed up, considered that the only source of parametric combustion feedback is from the O2 sensors, and that (despite them not generating any error codes) it would be stupid not to replace them both on spec - fastest and cheapest thing to try. So I just did that and now it's as happy as a baby in a barrel of t!ts.
    1 point
  3. I've been slowly working on the EA82 in my 87 DL wagon I picked up last month. I work as time and funds permit. The engine came out for repair due to a head gasket leak on #3. I surfaced the heads, lapped the valves, decked the block, etc. I hate to return greasy, grimy parts to service so a general cleanup has been going on too. New timing belts, idlers, tensioners, oil pump seals, new water pump, crank seal, all coolant hoses, A/C compressor bearing, oil pan dropped and resealed, 19 stripped holes were helicoiled, etc. You guys have seen all this before but it's new to me and fun to undertake something different. My experience the last 30 years has been with air-cooled flat-6 engines. The DL's engine compartment is being cleaned as well as the accessories while I have good access to reach in there and scrub everything. There was quite a bit of surface rust below the battery but also under the master cylinder where the past owner failed to fix a brake fluid leak. I'm treating that rust and then will paint it all while I'm there. So far so good. I may have the engine back in place in a few weeks but with the heat in Phoenix I'm not out there working all day long.
    1 point
  4. I believe there are some EA81 axles that use the 87-AC joint, same as AWD 1st generation legacy. Should be able to simply slide the EA81 cup off and slip Leggy cup right on to the assembled balls and cage........
    1 point
  5. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Tapered-Ball-Joint-Reamer-10-Degree,29005.html https://febestparts.com/OUTER_CV_JOINT_22X56X27/0810-007 https://febestparts.com/INNER_JOINT_22X40X25/0811-1001 Those are the parts I used. I highly recommend buying different axle boots. I forget now if it was the inner or outer cv, but one of them came with boots that were too short in length for my liking. The grease in the kit seemed to be good quality, and they've held up well for 15-1600 miles. Which is better luck than I've had from parts store axles lol. You will need to disassemble a pair of axles to make sure these are compatible with the splines on the shaft itself. There were several possibilities for the axles when these things were made. Both of my donor axles were aftermarket, and both worked perfectly. So they may be a one size fits all type deal with the aftermarket axles.
    1 point
  6. OK. I will make my own pillow ball top mount and will use the EA81 spring on a modified EJ strut.
    1 point
  7. Sure I'll get to it as soon as I finish the projects on my Hatch, Porsche & BRAT. You can pick it up sometime in the spring of 2020
    1 point
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