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Bump from the absolute dead. This car spent 5? years in body shop limbo. Last fall it was painted and I was able to get it back together enough to drive around. I felt like I should update this as I've been driving it a small amount and finally enjoying it. The paint is killer, It gets looks and complements everywhere I take it. I'm doing some mechanical repairs this summer, and I'm having a spare set of seats reupholstered. Overall its really close to where I want it now. Last year I found a crack free dash and installed that. I've also been using up my nos Subaru stash I've been collecting. This has receved new struts, many seals, and bushings, and brake parts, It feels great to be back in a Brat.

Thank you for your concern and good suggestions. I was told I am not the only idiot to do this, so I hope it might help someone else. Yes, copious amounts of water on my front leather seats and underneath, where the Eyesight Module was bolted down. After shop vaccing it, and towels, I did my best to dry it out with no garage and raining outside, again! I got creative and threw a big tarp over top, secured it not too tight and rolled the windows down a bit with a little airspace. Blew the heater full blast for an hour, checking on it. It actually seemed to do a decent job with the carpeting, but under the carpet was a different story. I realized I needed more help. Now I have great news!! Problem solved!! Best decision ever to get professional help. I found a local detailer who pulled out the seats and carpet and gave it a mold remediation treatment, just in case. He even took out the Eyesight module to see if it would dry overnight. He did an amazing job on a holiday weekend and even delivered the car! It is not only showroom clean and dry, with an enzyme treatment to prevent future mold issues, but the best part? No promises, but all the electronics work now!! Eyesight, airbags, everything! He had the right equipment and experience with a great, family attitude. He quoted between $300-400 and went the extra mile for only $350! I thought it would cost thousands to replace and pay a dealership. Now I can cancel my appointment. I feel very blessed and plan to pay him extra.

After that, we only changed the old motor Oil with this one, as usual: with Lucas oil stabilizer Additive and a fresh Wix oil Filter And the Good old Mercury Comet is Good to Go, once again! Thanks to God.

I would turn it back in and not deal with any of that foolishness. Buy a Toyota or Lexus if you want something newer that has a hope of being reliable is my suggestion - do your homework carefully on any model you consider from any manufacturer though..... The FB cars are garbage in my opinion. Or do as many of us have done - forget newer cars and get something from an era when things were made to be repaired and complexity being the enemy of reliability wasn't such an issue. GD

Southern CA, CO and SW US seems to be the best place for dry, rust free, and decent prices. Look hard - that’s a good opportunity! I’ve gotten a few from out there. Hope you can find something! You’re talking about most of my neighbors. They’re good people and will gladly help you change a flat and would be kind unless you’re loud, trying to pull one over on them, criticize, or disrupt their homes. They’re good folks but “Don’t tread on me”. The rock thrower types are usually reclusive and locals can eye roll when their names come up. I helped one diagnose and fix his daughters Subaru, gave him some parts…..and almost regret it. Hahaha.

Prior to install it on the Mercury, I painted its outside with Premium anti Rust / Anti Gravel Paint

Suddenly, the new parts started to come, one by one; the first was the Fuel Level Sender unit... ...from Collier's Classics. This is my Coupé's interior, by the way: Along came the electric Fuel Pump, as these parts came via airways.

I got my dates wrong. I think I’ll be around all weekend so I can do any date. full showers bathrooms and kitchen and noone else will be there. It is on a main street - so there’s some random traffic noise if you’re a light sleeper. But it’s only a 30,000 person town surrounded by mountains so not like a big city.

Please keep us posted on your progress and location. Who knows what folks may be along your way!

i use 3 layers of steel sheetmetal and ring the holes with copper wire and coat it all with copper head gasked dressing they seal the worst headers and there reusable im on round 3 right now and still no leaking back to the ops issue from what it sounds like is pinning or knocking try adding 92 octain gas or retarding the timing a hair if it goes away its a timing issue or a bad plug issue or maybe even carbon build up on the piston creating a hot spot ether way try better gas and or adjusting the timing

Big update, the heads are on! The factory repair manual says to "coat each side of the head gasket with liquid sealer", which I interpreted as copper gasket spray. I've used this stuff on EJ motors, it seems to work just fine. I also used it on the copper sealing rings at the bases of the cylinders... Another thing the manual mentions is a spacer tool to help torque the bolts that hold the rocker shafts on. I just took apart some EA71 rocker assemblies and borrowed the towers to use as spacers. I was able to borrow the head alignment tool used when bolting these heads on, you can see it bolts to the coolant crossover flange and holds two of the intake bolt holes in place. It's starting to look like a real engine! I torqued both heads in steps, the repair manual is pretty vague on what I should actually do. This is the OEM manual, too. It says to tighten in stages before the final torque, so I did 5 pound increments. It went very smoothly! Next is rocker shafts, and I have some NOS parts on their way to continue my assembly.

Check with Painless Wiring for the fuse box. I have installed several Painless wiring harnesses in street rods over the years. Very good products and the fuse boxes are nice. https://www.painlessperformance.com/ All my best to you and your family. So sorry for the loss of your father.

Surprisingly, the Leaks developed on the Upper part of the Tank! Oh my God! ... ... Look at that fuel level sender unit!