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Thank you for your concern and good suggestions. I was told I am not the only idiot to do this, so I hope it might help someone else. Yes, copious amounts of water on my front leather seats and underneath, where the Eyesight Module was bolted down. After shop vaccing it, and towels, I did my best to dry it out with no garage and raining outside, again! I got creative and threw a big tarp over top, secured it not too tight and rolled the windows down a bit with a little airspace. Blew the heater full blast for an hour, checking on it. It actually seemed to do a decent job with the carpeting, but under the carpet was a different story. I realized I needed more help. Now I have great news!! Problem solved!! Best decision ever to get professional help. I found a local detailer who pulled out the seats and carpet and gave it a mold remediation treatment, just in case. He even took out the Eyesight module to see if it would dry overnight. He did an amazing job on a holiday weekend and even delivered the car! It is not only showroom clean and dry, with an enzyme treatment to prevent future mold issues, but the best part? No promises, but all the electronics work now!! Eyesight, airbags, everything! He had the right equipment and experience with a great, family attitude. He quoted between $300-400 and went the extra mile for only $350! I thought it would cost thousands to replace and pay a dealership. Now I can cancel my appointment. I feel very blessed and plan to pay him extra.

No - warn axle won’t impact alignment. Same with wheel sensor. Not axle related. 1. Inner Tire wear is most frequently alignment. If it was aligned properly and you have *no other symptoms* and they checked the bushings there’s no reason to think this isn’t fixed. 2. “noted the axle” - If that’s the main thing you had to relay to us, you can likely ignore it. Sounds like non-diagnostic conjecture. A well versed Subaru person would have given specifics about noise, play, boot, grease, inner, outer. 3. 2006s had mad ABS wheel sensor issues when they first came out. It’s as if the first year integrated ABS/wheel bearing assemblies took awhile for aftermarket suppliers to figure out. Happened all the time 15 years ago and if you’re not around Subarus a lot it’s easy to not know or forget that. If you think you have wheel sensor issues the most likely culprit if you don’t have any ABs light/trouble codes is an aftermarket wheel bearing installed awhile ago. You can Read the ABS codes if there’s a memory fucntion. Check for play, use a stethoscope while turning wheel by hand and use a temp gun to compare hub temps to the other side - all to assess possible wheel bearing failure. Though usually you can hear it. ive seen sensors covered in rust - remove sensor, blow off rust and reinstall - works like new. I’ve also seen sensors warn down to nubs and obviously bad. On your ABS is the ABS defititely triggering or are you just relaying “vibrating” and “shaking” from the driver (I think you indicated your wife drives this?) If it’s vibrating on braking the front rotors need turned. And the caliper bushings need checked. If you use normal old school caliper grease on those 2006 the pin bushings swell and cause braking issues. Have you ever use regular permatex caliper grease on these?

The condition of the nuts, stud and ring terminal on the alternator output looks like a very poor connection. Disconnect it, and clean all the rust and corrosion of the parts.

The best way to tell is to get it up on a lift or jackstands and see if the wheel feels loose even when the lugnuts are tight. It sounds either like a wheel bearing or a ball-joint, it's possible the axle could cause the shaking; but unlikely especially if you haven't noticed it making any other noise. The axles on these cars last a long time if the boots are promptly replaced when ripped and they are re-packed when they first start making noise. I'm sure others with more specific knowledge will also reply with some ideas. I'm certainly not the definitive expert; but the way the axles work on these, there isn't a way for a worn axle to effect camber, that has to be something in the hub or suspension.

Hello all! I realize it has been a long time since I have updated anyone on here…. The car is still not done :/. I know I should have finished it by now but life got away from me, needless to say I am focusing on it hard now and want to have it at least firing by August 1st! I have the engine installed and wiring in, lately I have been finishing up other wiring on the car like a backup camera, the radio, the new coolant and oil pressure gauges, and everything I also have other things to button up wiring wise then clutch in, transmission in, driveline built, exhaust done, intake piping, and other misc engine bay things! I am trying to take my time and not cut any corners on this build but it will all be worth it in the end!

If anybody is interested I did fix it. I bought an auto CC computer off of ebay and plugged it up. If you just clip one of the 4 wires that goes into the auto relay (black and red wire) it works. The only thing is it of course doesn't disengage when you hit the clutch, but personally I only use it on long trips so I'm not to worried about it. Not sure if my manual computer was bad or If I wired it up wrong, but in my opinion it's easier just to use the computer that matches the factory harness of your car.

I would turn it back in and not deal with any of that foolishness. Buy a Toyota or Lexus if you want something newer that has a hope of being reliable is my suggestion - do your homework carefully on any model you consider from any manufacturer though..... The FB cars are garbage in my opinion. Or do as many of us have done - forget newer cars and get something from an era when things were made to be repaired and complexity being the enemy of reliability wasn't such an issue. GD

Don’t bin the legacy until your conversion is up and running properly. Otherwise Murphy might pay you a visit! Cheers Bennie

Hardstylin' with the Battle Wagon-to-be