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I replaced the washers and nuts on the alternator and literally everything reads properly now. What an easy fix. Scrub scrub scrub those connections.

Must be your first car Or, maybe you got a reliable EA82. Thank every deity you can think of, and don't mess with it. It will be more expensive, more work, slower, and less reliable than a non turbo EJ Not a chance that it has the same compression ratio as a turbo.

not that long if it was already giving symptoms.. it needs new tophats, period. you might be able to nurse it along for a little longer by keeping it lubed up, but damage has already been done.

GD is correct and I agree that I have put more money into my EA82s than what they are worth, but it is all I have in my shed

Thank you for the TSB, I'll look into it tomorrow. No major water on the seat. Maybe a little bit of moisture from small spills, but no drenching and no water under the seat. I hate all of the fancy bits in the cars anymore. The electric seats are nice, but I miss the days of using the key to turn the passenger airbag off haha

Nice hit you were able to read them! I haven’t seen any ABS or SRS codes on 2010+ Subarus except a couple wrecks I’ve rebuilt but that doesn’t count. So I’m not familiar. The car didn’t get rain or a spill or swimmers sitting in it like a recent previous poster did it? Their lights came on and went out with some copious drying. The new seats loaded with AC, sensors, bidets, and heaters and aren’t as forgiving of getting wet as older seats. Lol Next: Recalls or TSBs. Id call Subaru or check online and ask if there’s any related recalls or TSBs. I found a related TSB below, probably better to search for recalls using your VIN. Here’s the TSB. Subaru sees this enough or otherwise found this update necessary some of these tests can be done with a basic multimeter: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10138780-9999.pdf

Wow. That’s a fantastic price. Thank you so much for posting back. I was very curious how this would work out.

No toss up: 2002 ATs have removable shafts, MTs do not. Do just like nvu said and pop them right out. I’ve gotten used and JDM trans with one or both missing before (including 2002 automatics). No, but this brings up a good point. The seals around them are directional. The shafts are not. If they beat it enough to yank one side out and not the other then replace that seal, or carefully inspect it and make sure it has its inner sealing spring. I’ve seen those come out on axle yank jobs. As he said it’s directional L/R so get the correct side.

that's the classic symptom of the 'cardan' joint (u-joint) on the steering shaft going bad. To prove it, spray some light lube or even PB Blaster on the joint to see if it (temporaily) gets better.

Hey Jeszek, I haven’t read this thread before now. Awesome story with the car. Same head gasket?? Like ccrinc, it was sad to read you were about to embark on a real milestone drive with your father but then he unexpectedly passed away. While you may feel empty and sad that he’s not there, remember all the good times you shared together with him and as a family travelling around in the car. We have a kind of similar story in terms of age of ownership of a vehicle - it’s a 1929 Chevrolet six cylinder tourer. Dad built it with his brother in their late teens. It’s been registered ever since and would be on 50 years of continual registration since the late 60’s or the early 70’s. We’re currently looking for a head gasket solution for it... As for your fuse box issue, do you have a solution yet? Got any pics of the fuse panel with some dimensions? Cheers Bennie