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it raises and lowers pretty good. the blade is just a plastic 55 gallon drum cut in half riveted together in the center and has some metal bolted through the back of it. the blade is an actual plow blade though. it weighs the car down pretty good when lifted up. the car is literally built of all the crap leftovers that were deemed to worn out for a daily driver for the sole purpose of being a yard mule. has an overheated block and very sludgy heads from another engine. 15 dollar head gaskets every bushing and ball joint is worn rear end is smashed from an accident prior to me getting it and trunk leaks water. i have the duty c solenoid on a switch so i can manually put the car into locked awd and the airbag fuse pulled out. its filled with all used fluids and has ran longer than weve expected it to. its hauled 1000's of pounds of fire wood and plowed the driveway 2 years so far and still seems to run fine.

The car is heavily modified. It has little or maybe no "historic" value at all. So putting back a VW engine would be a big step back. An EJ engine would make much more sense, but my current budget and time schedule do not allow me such projects...

I replaced the washers and nuts on the alternator and literally everything reads properly now. What an easy fix. Scrub scrub scrub those connections.

I have done further research on this issue and turns out there is a tech service bulletin about reprogramming the ECU so that the low oil light only comes on when you are 1.1 quarts low. This seems like a bad idea, but is a band aid due to the excessive oil consumption issue on these engines. I found a youtube video (mrsubaru1387) which claims the real problem is that corporate made the decision to try to get extra fuel mileage by building these engine to "looser" specs. Apparently even a class action lawsuit a has been settled which resulted in Subaru replacing entire short blocks for some folks, but that did not help the issue and thus some owners actually got a buy back. The excess oil use can foul plugs, catalytic converters, O2 sensors, etc. My question now is, might it make sense to use a different weight oil, even if this reduces fuel mileage a bit? Color me frustrated!

Sorry, I'm not trying to talk down to your anything; just relating my own experience with these kinds of "diagnoses" at tires stores. If it's something you already know then feel free to ignore me, I suppose. I guess I don't see the point in not just putting on a new boot if you have to take the thing out anyway...an extra 30 min to repack with grease and put on a new boot will save a whole lot of money.

Sorry it was long. The short answer to your questions are: “no, the axle can’t impact camber or wheel bearings”. ABS: Focus on specific symptoms - what is it doing? Post any codes and describe symptoms. Aftermarket wheel bearings were good at setting ABS codes. The wheel sensors can be cleaned off.

Well I can appreciate all that but ya know I’m kind of old and been around the block , but thank you. I realize I asked a noob question. Please keep in mind I’m not a new guy at all. Just presented with a new issue or what I thought was one. For sure I’ll get the best axle , install it myself like I have for decades , and take care of whatever I can. Right now I’m pressed for time and have various health issues , etc etc etc Thanks