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Thanks ! Got the travel thread heating up now. LOL

Thanks heartless. Our 2013 Crosstrek was getting 28 mpg at 120K miles but after tuneup and throttle body cleaning it now get 31 to 32. It runs 0-20 oil and never needs any between changes I do at 6K. FWIW, a dealer service advisor I like just told me about a product he swears will reduce oil consumption by about half. He says B G Engine restorer is a engine flush that actually works! He recommends just before an oil change get the car a quart low; add a quart of this product (available on amazon and some parts stores); run the engine for 10 minutes; stop engine and let cool (which I assume helps the product dissolve deposits); restart engine and run 5 minutes and then drain while still hot (be careful!). Complete oil and filter change--oil will be black as tar. Do this for two normal oil changes and oil consumption should be greatly reduced. He did not recommend using thicker oil, but we'll see. I will try this soon and report my findings. May still go to 5-30, but I'll try this first.

Ok here we are , on the fly. Made up the route as we boogaloo’d. Pardon the non stopping in the northeast. Enjoying all the green. Left CT and the NYC traffic for the sweet roads of “upstate NY”. Took 287 away from hell , caught a minimum of the backside of rush hour , and hit 17/86 and through the Appalachians. Getting close to Erie. Heading towards Louisville, sure to stop for the night somewhere on that run down 71. Will check back later. Cheers !

The timing belt is an easy thing to check. My experience with several of these engines is that the timing belt makes it about 60k miles, then snaps. Not a big deal to fix, it does no damage to the internals. New belts and idlers, re set the marks, and go. The sensor in the distributor could be bad. The igniter transistor could be bad. A wire between any of these could be bad. The easiest thing to check is the timing belt. Take the cap off, turn the crankshaft with a wrench. Does the rotor move?

You also may want to make sure it's the correct alternator by checking info against the OEM version. The H6 Alternator is higher amperage output than the H4 alternator and that could cause a problem, especially with all the accessories running, and definitely if there are aftermarket drains on the power like 1 Lucky Texan said.

it raises and lowers pretty good. the blade is just a plastic 55 gallon drum cut in half riveted together in the center and has some metal bolted through the back of it. the blade is an actual plow blade though. it weighs the car down pretty good when lifted up. the car is literally built of all the crap leftovers that were deemed to worn out for a daily driver for the sole purpose of being a yard mule. has an overheated block and very sludgy heads from another engine. 15 dollar head gaskets every bushing and ball joint is worn rear end is smashed from an accident prior to me getting it and trunk leaks water. i have the duty c solenoid on a switch so i can manually put the car into locked awd and the airbag fuse pulled out. its filled with all used fluids and has ran longer than weve expected it to. its hauled 1000's of pounds of fire wood and plowed the driveway 2 years so far and still seems to run fine.

Must be your first car Or, maybe you got a reliable EA82. Thank every deity you can think of, and don't mess with it. It will be more expensive, more work, slower, and less reliable than a non turbo EJ Not a chance that it has the same compression ratio as a turbo.

not that long if it was already giving symptoms.. it needs new tophats, period. you might be able to nurse it along for a little longer by keeping it lubed up, but damage has already been done.

I also finished installing the fuel system, and rewired the fuel pump. And now I have a runner! It starts and idles off the tank gas and so far I haven't had any leaks. Was a huge success this weekend. I still have a lot of progress to make, next few items I will be working on, probably in order: - Throttle Cable - Radiator/Coolant hoses - Power Steering - O2 sensors + Exhaust (bare minimum to get both sensors working) Much more after those few items.

Rebuilt the master cylinder and hill hold valve the last few days on the 87 DL. Also pulled out the brake booster and cleaned it up. While those parts were out I freshened up that corner of the engine compartment and did some touch up painting too