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tornadoes are the yanks answer to funnel web spiders

I have a 2008 OB with chronic, migratory and recurring heat shield issues. 135K miles in the rust belt. Years ago when it first started, car was in for a free oil change at SOA. I always enjoy the up-sell conversation when in for the "free" service... "Sir, you are due for your headlight rotation. I see you have your kids in the car. You probably want to take care of this now." I always decline, telling them they are not my kids, so not my problem. Besides, I do most simple work myself and rotate the headlights as per manufacturers schedule of maintenance. OK Back to the heat shield noise. The tech proceeded to bang around with his hand on the exhaust and once the noise was located (to my horror) he inserted a self tapping screw into the exhaust. But what he actually did was drill ONLY through the heat shield but NOT actually into the exhaust pipe, wedging the shield in place, eliminating the heat shield from rattling. Phew. In the past I used stainless steel hose clamps (per USMB recommendations) where straight runs allowed but recently ran into a new loose heat shield on a bend that defied my attempts with a clamp. Pulled out my nut driver and a self tapping screw and voila, NNM (noise no more.) Sounds like OP may have figured out his noise but just wanted to tell an old timer's tale of yore. Now, get off my lawn. ;-)

Well, I see it differently If you set the cam and crank cogs up on a theoretical engine as a boxer and measured say 300mm from two points, one of crank, one of cam, then shave a mm off Your belt is a fixed dimension in new state, so when all is buttoned up after the shave, the EA82 dizzy side cam is going to be turned about one mm clockwise off perfect cam to crank timing and the turbo side head once shaved is going back one mm anti clockwise, altering your degreeing of the cams different to each other ! I used to work with a very clever engine builder a long time ago, and got much lectures and instruction on these sort of things. A straight engine would be adjustable to compensate but not a flat boxer. So much difference you really won't notice a thing

Do you have Photos of the event to share with us? Kind Regards.

I’ve removed a few with no special tools. It’s grueling abs that’s probably an understatement. . Grab the wheel on opposing sides. Literally wear yourself out trying to walk it off the splined shaft. Push one side while pulling the other side, then switch push/pull, and back and forth and back and forth. Do this like hundreds of times when it seems like the wheel isn’t moving at all and you feel crazy even trying while it seems impossibly seized on there. Eventually they come off. If you can direct any heat around the splined shaft without damaging anything do it. But I’ve never used heat on a steering wheel.