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Update, yesterday he finally got some time to work on the car, he jump started it and the voltage was way low and jumping around so he decided to try a rebuilt alternator. Today he installed it and it is working well so far. There are no warning lights on at the moment and the voltage seems normal. With the H6 alternator it is a little hard to tell whats going on, the ECU seems to adjust the charge voltage in a range from about 14.4vdc to about 12vdc based on what it senses load to be. I will feel a lot better about it after he has put some miles on it. BTW he is based at Camp Pendleton, he just found out he has a buddy with access to the auto shop so that will make a lot easier if he has other stuff he needs to work on.

No hammering on aluminum cast parts. Oil pump, distributor, big no, or expect it to break. #1 thing I have found to help disassemble these engines without breaking bolts, etc. - Heat the entire thing to 160-190 degrees F. Easiest to do if it is still running, but a space heater and a heat gun will do it also. About 2KW of heaters did it for me. #2 thing, Kano Aerokroil or similar penetrant. #3 patience! Carefully turn bolts, etc. feeling if the bolt is turning, or twisting off. After years of experience, I can usually tell. Once a bolt starts to move, if it starts to get stiffer again, stop, turn the other way, then go back to loosening, until it sticks. Repeat many times.

Thanks! I've got about 30 miles on it since getting the engine back in and so far, so good. Before the long test drive to work and back yesterday, I installed all the missing/worn out shifter bushings and got the shifter throws back to spec. I swear I could move the shifter over a foot left or right when I first got the car. It was light the shift rod was barely attached to anything. The past owner really let this thing go to the dogs. I also had a bad fuel leak at the fuel line damper at the output of the pump. The pump was not that old but the rubber disc in the damper was leaking. To stop the leak, I installed a very short 8-32 screw and gasket to seal the hole. I'll have maybe a little more pump noise in the lines now but that's better than leaking fuel. I discovered that the 4WD option is working, I just don't see the lamp on the dash so probably an easy fix The exhaust really needs attention next. Someone tried to weld up rust holes while the pipes were in the car so it leaks still as you can imagine. I also discovered a bad front strut on the driver's side so a fresh front pair are on order. Sometimes, the strut will not compress at all and yet it is not collapsed. I can sometimes get it to compress and bounce but I hear an odd gurgling noise instead of the normal shhh,shhh sound. Odd. I'm happy with the purchase so far. The A/C is working after adding about 12 ounces of R152a but I think think it has way too much lube and leak detector in the system so a good flush and fill will be in the future. For now, I have cool air so I'll work on more important stuff. Fuel pump assembly https://photos.app.goo.gl/ofobbzqY65rFdtVK6 Fuel pump pic showing where I installed a small screw in place of where the rubber damper tab was located. https://photos.app.goo.gl/8HoGV6XNUNRGP2Ae9

eh, the debris thing is a stupid guess really, imagine how much anything like that would slosh with normal turning/braking....