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That is exactly correct. Cylinder pressure forces the rings to seat faster. And really - when we are building high performance engines - it would be dangerous to send them out without testing them at full power to ascertain and program the proper fuel and timing maps into the computer. Not doing so could result in detonation and engine destruction in short order. GD

Yeah, I also read something written by a motorcycle engine rebuilder and they also recommend just driving it normal-to-hard. The combustion chamber pressure pushes the rings outward and he feels they seat better with use at near max power.....dunno if that translates to our engines perfectly...but no way would I ignore gd's experience.

They’re basically the same and would be the best basis of what you have in your BRAT if you can’t get your year’s FSM. AFAIK their pretty much the same except for rear doors and rear wiper - depending on whether or not your BRAT has the same instrument cluster as that of the FSM. Even then 80% of the wiring will be the same or very similar. What’s the issue you’re chasing? Cheers Bennie

Both EA81 4WD It’ll certainly help. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ maybe that helps too ?

easier to leave the cap a little loose... charcoal canister is underneath by the passenger rear tire i have a hard time getting down on the ground anymore, and an even harder time getting back up again =P i do have a parts car i can scavenge parts from... a 2005 model, but basically the same except it is an auto and my daily is a 5 spd in fact, i just finished up stealing both the front window regulators/motors out of it, cause the motors died in my car - so nice to have working windows again, lol oh yeah, and i stole the tweeters out of the 05 and put them in my car, LOL and they work!

I think the 95 is a 3.9 final drive and the 93 is a 4.11 final drive. So you changed your front differential final drive ratio and the rear needs to match. Of course you should double check since it's been previously swapped and still undiagnosed. You probably need a 4.11 rear differential. Do it now. That's a lot of straining buzzing down the road and screeching tires on bumps.

there definitly differnt style of joints the one with the cutouts use 3 roller bearings inside the other with no cut outs uses balls and cage inside the joint honestly it looks like a custom axle rear diff to front hub to me but i have seen differnt styles of joints used with ea82 axles also extremely differnt shaft sizes and joint sizes theres even a telescoping axle for the front of the ea82s lol from what it sounds like from what the op sead they will both work you can install it then check for binding while the strut is disconected if your worried about it

Knock knock, your new engine is calling. I bet you have very little oil pressure, as it's all blowing out past your rod bearings. Thicker oil and/or a high volume STi oil pump might buy some time. If the guide around the crank pulley is too tight, it will rub the text off the back of the belt. Was this clearance set correctly? Mitsuboshi makes belts for most Japanese OEMs. They do not sell them through the major parts stores, so many people don't realize they exist, but if you start watching, you'll see their name, or logo, on most belts (just did one on my Honda Odyssey yesterday, the original belt said Honda on it, but had the Mitsuboshi logo). Gates used to use quality Japanese bearings, but started phasing lower quality ones in probably 10 years ago, becoming increasingly more common. You don't have to search very hard to find wrecked engines due to Gates kits. With a little homework, it's not hard to find quality Japanese components from reputable sellers (NOT Amazon or eBay, lots of counterfeits) for a reasonable price.

not being in the best of health these days, i have not really done a lot with looking into this issue however... did have to get gas again yesterday, again, down to 1/4 tank, filled up... only this time, i left the cap loose while i ran into the store to get a couple of things... tightened the cap when i came out, car started just fine, ran fine, so yeah.. i need to find my code reader and have a look again..

did you make sure the tranny and the rear diff matched (final drive ratio) if not, then yeah, you have a pretty serious problem