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Just put a large straight slot screwdriver into the brake rotor and it will lock up the hub to break the nut. I usually stick them right down through the brake caliper.

NTN is what you want to see. wish we had access to NTN axles, or at least inner and outer joints, without going thru a dealer.

The ECU, and emissions system in the car is not expecting an EGR. So you are just keeping it factory. Blocking off EGR on a system that had it is different.

My "autocorrect" comment was a joke trying to make fun of these asinine changes Subaru made. the codes very well may have went away, I don't know enough about it to guess if it could have been the nonfoulers. I've got some nonfoulers laying around and my 06 tribeca has P0420 but after all these years and 250,000 miles I don't think I want to touch the sensors....

I’ll add that that cars we find now for $500 are full of industry planned obsolescence and inconvenience to the backyard mechanic compared to the awesome $500 beaters I was able to pick up right through the 2000’s. Different world now. Not one company treats their customers as Subaru did once upon a time.

My daughter just bought the car for $1850. The owner volunteered to lower the price from $2000 because the Auto-Start stopped working and she hadn't been aware of that. Now our youngest daughter has the newest car. Now she well sell her 95 Legacy. Our eldest daughter has a 96 Legacy with only about 150,000 miles on it. My wife has the 98 Forester that doesn't want to die. I have a 95 Legacy with 207,000 miles on it and a 97 GMC 2500 truck. At one stage I had two 95 Legacies just for me, so we had three 95 Legacies all at the same time. I had picked up my second one for only $400. It needed lots of work so I fixed it up and then sold it for $1100.

You did mention you had a 96 ecu? Chasing the readiness monitor is near impossible with those as the programming was flawed. If you turn off the engine, it loses the readiness state. Even smog in CA has an exemption for 96 year subarus.

I'd guess most of that heat was from brake drag owing to the loose bearing, not the bearing itself. Might not be a bad idea to flush the brake system, or at least bleed it. I stopped getting update emails for this thread a while ago so I haven't been checking in as often.

nothing wrong with a small rant or two. I feel pretty much the same regarding newer cars... newest we have here is a 2006 H6 LL Bean Outback.. still going along pretty well.. has a periodic CEL, nothing of any significance, but enough to kill the cruise control... pull out the code reader, clear the code, good for another month or two my daily is a 04 Forester & we have an 05 for parts (car was brought in to the salvage place my other half works to be scrapped - his boss let us have it for a parts car - only has 168K or so. bringing it home has already paid off... my front power windows crapped out - both of them... was the motors that died... pulled the necessary parts from the 05 and I have functioning windows again, YAY! kinda got bummed the other day... found an 05 LL Bean Forester for 500 - motor supposedly shot.. but found out it had been sitting in the weeds for at least a year.. all that damp is not good so we passed on it.