Leaderboard

yeah, you need to fold the seat back down (lift the bottom to the upright position first, then pull up on the knob on the seatback, close to the windows) you may need to remove a strip (could be metal or plastic) that goes between the seat back carpet and the cargo carpet and holds both down, but if someone was in there before you, it may already be gone... just behind the seat back, lift/fold back the carpet, and you should see the access covers - there will not be any sticky material (sound deadening) over top of them. in a wagon, the access covers are BEHIND the seat, in the cargo area - not under the seat.

My station wagon's rear seat is a bench seat which has a looped piece of fabric in the center. When you pull up on this "handle," the bench seat rotates 90 degrees into its up position. Directly underneath the passenger side of the vacated bench seat, is some sticky material (it did seem like the material was OEM) covering the spot where I saw fuel lines going down into what I believe now is the gas tank. Is that how your '95 was? Thanks very much for the detailed explanation about the sub-chapters, headings, and line numbers. Now it makes sense to me. 😀 If the 8mm nuts give me any resistance, I'm going to use PB blaster and then leave the vicinity for a while because those fumes are powerful. Regarding the replacement fuel pump, I hold off on that discussion until I determine the old one is defective. Thanks to all you for your replies. mrfixiter

In the wagon it's just behind the rear seat. In the Sedan's it's under the rear seat. You'll see an oval panel with 4 screws in it. Pull the panel and you will see another oval panel with many 8mm nuts and the fuel hoses and electrical connector. Spray the fuel hoses with WD-40 or some other lube. Carefully remove the hoses, electrical connector and then the 8mm nuts. Pull the panel and pump. Get a Subaru pump. Even a used one is better than aftermarket.

Are you saying it's on one side? If so then replace that one rear wheel bearing. That has nothing to do with the diff/trans. That's normal for wheel bearings, particularly OEM ones, they can take a long time to get worse when they first start. Eventually they start getting worse quickly. I routinely drive wheel bearings thousands of miles while humming/groaning. Got one right now, not worried about it, just did a 500 mile road trip this weekend. I like to turn the steering wheel rather sharply momentarily at higher speeds, like 50 mph, (tough to find good road conditions to do this) to change the loading, you'll often hear the noise momentarily disappear. This guarantees it's a wheel bearing. If you don't think it's on one side or think it could be something else, drain rear diff fluid and check for metallic discoloration of the fluid.