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It's the big bushing with the ears. If you didn't loosen the huge nut, it could be put back on car as is. No need marking anything. If you did loosen the huge nut, put everything back on car loosely torqued. Load up the suspension, paint a line straight across the bushing to the arm. Take everything off and torque the big nut 180ftlb with the paint mark lined up. You can reassemble the rest pretty straight forward, and load up the suspension again to get the big bushing ears to line up to the chassis.

Ball joints and endlinks you can full torque since they can swivel independently. The bushing bolts should be fully torqued with the suspension loaded. You can get away with padding wood under the knuckle and raising it with floor jack just until it starts lifting the car. Figure out how to do this without having to climb under the car. The biggest nut for the rear bushing will be a pain to torque on car. There's no clearance to fit a socket and torque wrench on there. You can use a special offset socket. Or finger tighten, put it on car and load suspension with floor jack. Mark the position of the bushing relative to control arm. Take everything off and full torque.

Did you inspect the clutch fork for cracks or deformities? Was the clutch an aftermarket kit that included the throw out bearing? I’ve found aftermarket throw out bearings are undersized - only by several mm but every bit counts! And are you sure it was the correct clutch kit? Cheers Bennie

I get them from the dealer. They’re the same part as a legacy Imprezas BRZ or Crosstek so subaru will have them in stock. I work on XTs 10x more than other EA82 models but they’re also EA82 and should be the same. I have an EA82 in an XT in my driveway now ive installed new clips from Subaru in it One time someone here said they’re just to help assembly and not strictly necessary?!?!