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There are times where I have used tranny fluid as a manual flush (cheap Walmart brand) in a situation where I want to clean out inaccessible areas somewhat. I do so by removing the engine oil, changing the filter, pouring in a gallon of tranny fluid instead of motor oil and then manually running the oil pump with a drill motor. I do this until I build pressure in the galleys and then rotate the engine slowly so that all the bearing and passages get a good drink. This is a handy time to have a friend run the drill while you turn the crank by hand. I let it sit like that overnight and do the same thing over and over for several days while I work on other details. No rush. Let the tranny fluid dissolve some of the old oil deposits and swell the seals. Drain it when you are done and then open the engine as far as you can and manually clean and flush as you can. On the 240K miles EA82 I refreshed recently (did not split the case) I disassembled just up to the point of pulling the pistons. I then flushed the case internals with mineral spirits, brake clean, carb cleaner, etc. I soaked the loose lifters in tranny fluid after they were out. I used a drill press while the lifters were down inside a soup can and slowly forced the old oil out and the tranny fluid in. I let them sit like that over night and did that routine 3 more times over several days. Quite a bit of junk came out as they bled down. I installed them while still filled with tranny fluid and to this day have not heard a single lifter tap ever.

Will try it on my 08 OB when due and report back for the inquisitive.

I ended up changing the transmission, it runs well no issues. Thanks for the suggestions. As idosubaru mentioned dented pans can cause issues, the replacement tranny had a dented pan, initially it ran but was producing code 75 and was shifting poorly. It ended up being the Line Pressure Duty Solenoid, also called Duty Solenoid A. It looked like the pan broke the connector to the solenoid when it was dented. I replaced the solenoid and its running well.

Ok don’t all applaud too loudly now but the engine is finally at my storage hole just a nickel short of a buck with being on the stand and beginning the work. Have to dig up some long bolts to secure the block/bell housing to the stand. But this party starts really soon.

I don't recommend that either (without good reason) however, it would be completely within the safety limits of the tire if you did. My point in posting was to add clarity your two comments that at no time should hot tire pressures ever exceed max pressure indicated on the tire. It is more correct to say you should never exceed that pressure when the tire is cold but you don't have to worry about the pressure rise when the tire becomes hot while driving. So, back to the topic. Could the TPMS in the OP's situation be calibrated to a new range or is it a fixed setting that even the dealer cannot adjust? I do not know but am curious. I'm fortunate that my newest vehicle is over 17 years old so I don' have those TPMS devices but may someday.

Have you tried lessening it to like 40? Can you experiment until you find the maximum pressure they'll take without tripping the light? I'd just guess it's around 40 psi. When you find that maximum it will probably also give you nearly identical gas mileage as 50 psi...all things being equal (which they won't be with changing seasons. 50 is probably "maximum", not a recommended pressure. Tire manufacturers don't give recommended pressures because they don't know the final application/vehicle it'll be installed on.

is the car producing a fuel smell at the tailpipe now?