Leaderboard

RT Rotator Cuff Surgery the end of August kept me out of the waves. The beach was great. Can't beat PMRF Barking Sands. I'd walk 2 hours and see 3 people on a busy day.

No the billet knuckles will certainly be heavier. Probably been a bit since I posted about those but the advantages should be: bolt on wheel bearings, same as 05-15(?) Legacy/Outback front - hopefully more durable and much easier to replace in the field this will allow us to use front axles in the rear also (almost done making rear diff stub adapters for both R160 and R180 to use female front axles) - stronger, more plunge and angle capacity, and will allow us to carry one spare axle instead of two or three same rotors as front for more rear braking power which should help backing down loose hills and improve steering brake action, also the stock mini drum parking brakes have never impressed me, hopefully these work better captive nuts and stitch welding - that'd be great given unlimited time but honestly we haven't had any problems with the bodies of our rust free Subarus coming apart yet. Guess we'll find out. See above and below but again haven't blown the _tops_ of the strut towers out on any of these cars, even my black Outback which has been through many desert races now. We've hit some things HARD in that car but maybe not as many times as a stage rally car does in years of use. Haven't blown out any strut towers on rust free Subarus. I'm guessing stage rally cars have much stiffer suspension than our cars, that's gotta be a lot harder on the bodies. You can honestly barely feel landing off jumps in these cars when the jump and suspension are set up right. Yeah, front fenders shouldn't be too bad for you to just bend out. Rear will definitely be a project for you. If it was anyone else I'd really try to discourage you from going down that path since it's not just cutting out the fenders, you're really cutting into the structure after the first inch or so and will have big gaps to patch back together so they seal and don't come apart. On both ends if it wasn't for the fender lips just eyeballing I'd say we have another 2"+ of clearance to the wheel wells at least in most areas. Front of the rear wheel wells will probably be another project for you unless you make longer trailing arms. The 215/75/15s already rub badly there near full droop and that's with worn tires. Some hammering will probably solve my problem but again you might have to cut into some structure to make yours fit. On with the Impreza build: Some of this is Subaru lifting 101 but might as well include it. Below are rear subframe brackets (in front of trailing arms). Near is Impreza/Legacy/Forester, far is Outback. Left is Outback, right is standard washer for the top of the rear subframe in the same spot. Those stock spacers are solid steel and kinda heavy (3/4#) and also fairly small diameter. I have bent one of the long bolts that go up through those into the body before. Probably bent the body, hopefully this larger diameter spacer helps with that. Will probably make some kind of better bracket too. Aluminum spacers only weigh 1/2# and are almost twice the diameter at the base. B made up 1.5" tall spacers for the trailing arms and auto trans. Told him to just make them simple since they hopefully won't be in long. Plates in lower right will go under front subframe, I made those many months ago. B measured some options including flipping the hanger bearing and making 1.5" tall spacers for it was the best option to keep the driveshaft sections and trans the most parallel. Next up had to modify the strut towers to fit the later style rear strut tops. Added hole, slotted others, opened up center hole, cleaned out caulk and paint for welding. Made 1/8" 4130 plates to weld on. Should have bought some to try. I think most people cut these back farther so they also weld to the stock strut tower cap but these are at least somewhat burned into that, also seemed redundant since it's mostly in compression.

Inspection window?

I only went to the other terminals because I got a new multimeter and was curious. I started with what was in the diagram and then proceeded to probe around out of curiosity. The image above specifies 0.73ohm, and I am getting 80ohms across the above pins and NOTHING else. Compression checks out across all cylinders. All between 183-189. Plug on cylinder 2 was soaked in fuel…couple this with the lightning storm that came off the end of the lead when unplugged and the fact that the engine doesn’t run any worse when I pull that particular lead off and I want to believe it’s not the coil but maybe it’s just not pushing the required voltage and amperage anymore edit- prove to probe

dont discount it just yet.. it could very well be just the leaky radiator. It wont suck coolant back in, because the system is not sealed properly - and it could be pushing it out for the same reason. get the new rad installed and see how she behaves before going down the "needs head gaskets/engine replaced" route.