Leaderboard

No, Subarus have constant flow through the heater core, and divert the air around it to adjust the temperature.

I'm a total tool queen, so if I can get even a cheapie to add to my permanent reserve (in this case it was a pressure tester from Princess Auto, which is sort of like our Harbor Freight), I'll do it regardless of how seldom I think I'll use it. It's about having as broad a range of tools in the arsenal as possible. Aside from the differences I mentioned above, consider that looking for the leak with the engine stopped and/or cold also means the fans won't be blowing drips, drops, and steam away from the actual source of the problem, and that you may be able to hear a hiss you wouldn't otherwise. An array of diagnostic tools means you're not relying on just one to contain all the necessary magic, as that's rarely the case. A different tool allows a different perspective on the problem.

This is a Factory Carb'd + Disty EJ engine Running in an Honduran Subaru Legacy: (More info, part numbers and photos on this Thread ~► Here) The 1981 Ford Escort distributor fits with little modification. Slight modification of the drive plate to mate with the cam and open up the mounting bolt slots, in case you want to adapt a Ford Escort distributor, the parts needed from the Ford, are the complete distributor, the plug from distributor to the ignition module, the ignition module itself, an average ignition coil and its coil wire. As far as I know, besides the Ford Escort distributor, also the ones from the Early Mitsubishi Lancer and Ford Laser / Mazda 323 works. By the way, regarding this statement... ...Here I found one for sale, online: ~► https://articulo.mercadolibre.com.uy/MLU-605372654-distribuidor-subaru-legacy-18-_JM Kind Regards.

Do you have a pressure tester?

you thoroughly checked the top of the block - on the drivers side? there is a tube that runs from front to back along the drivers side - inboard of the head, but hidden by the intake - that is often a culprit in situations like this... not usually all that obvious unless you have a clue what you are looking for.

Man, you're killing me. An old J-head with a motor drive on the table, and I'd be as happy as a baby in a barrel of tits. We don't need no steenkin' CNC. I did nine years (part-time) in a shop in SF where that mill was the centerpiece. I didn't get to use it much myself, and we didn't send anything into space, but the work we did blew minds (very weird story). I loved every minute I spent in front of it and can't wait to find the right one.

Long gone from Bridgeport. Even if it weren’t from my home town I’d say the Bpt. Miller stands above the rest with the J head. How many small time operators made dreams come true. Including my uncle who’s NASA parts he made in the 60’s and 70’s are still in space.

Ok, I have to eat my words here. Last weekend I found a ‘97 auto AWD Impreza sedan with rear drum brakes!! I NEVER knew this was a thing in Australia… Cheers Bennie

Sure am! Part of me is tempted to install the spare rear LSD I'm getting (3.7 ratio not 3.9 like the box), and to just put axle stubs back in the front, so I can run it RWD for a bit...

I did have a really fubar'ed hole on one block and went with a 12mm stud and 12mm nut. Retapped it to fit the 12mm stud. The water pump housing needed drilling slightly larger, but the fix saved an otherwise usable ej25 block. Luckily the hole was in the center of the pump and barely had enough room to fit the 12mm nut. I'm probably using the wrong terminology, but what I mean was the stud that normally fits in where a 12mm hex head bolt goes. Really not sure the actual size of the stud was, the nut was 12mm hex head. Dug through camera, still have pics