Leaderboard

It's usually about 4-5 quarts. Complete fill when replacing the torque converter is about 8. No issues we have encountered from mixing Amsoil with the factory stuff. I just did a TC on a 2011 last weekend (bad thrust washer delaying TCC release), and filled it with Amsoil and customer reports perfect operation. Fluid needs to be filled at 105 to 110 to ensure proper level. We fill, run through gears, fill again, run through gears, power-brake (lightly) till trans temp comes up within range and fill last time then test drive. GD

I'm not sure that the 95 and 99 controlers are not exactly the same. Yes the board is part of the control panel. You can replace just the borad. It's not hard, you just have to take your time. Small plastic lock tabs hold it in.

There are 2 parts to that actuator. The motor that moves the door, and a variable resistor to feed back how open the acutator is. Since you tried another panel ( controller ) and the motor moves when you apply power, then I would still replace the actuator as I suspect the variable resistor inside is defective. It's simply a slider on a carbon path that does wear out over time. Replaced many of these on all different makes of vehicles. They all seem to work the same, just with different controllers or panels.

We were able to pry it enough to get it bolted back in. Maybe not the long term solution but seemed to work. Dumb question but might as well throw it out there. Hood vents and scoop are black which I don't like. Seems like most of these have body color (green) scoop and vents. Leaning towards getting bumper professionally painted gold/champagne (whatever the bottom part of the body is). Based on the other parts we've gotten painted by them it should hold up pretty well so I'm not too worried about touch up. Also leaning towards getting vents and scoop and skids all painted that color while they're at it. Figure worst case on the vents and scoop I can get a can of spray paint to match the body and paint them later if I don't like the gold. Thoughts? Billet rear knuckle so far next to blank. Been working on the programs and fixturing, will probably make more progress this week. Think I figured out why the passenger headlight wasn't working in the black Outback. Built some gas tank guards. Jacked up back corners a bit to get them up against the gas tank and mostly welded them in place, didn't really spring back afterwards. Small square tubes going forward just have little sheet metal feet that rest on the floor. That part of the floor is recessed so they probably won't get directly hit, should provide a little ramp for the front of the subframe. I think these are slightly more heavy duty than the other ones we've built. Also did cut down those round tubes at the front subframe mounts. Got the main part of the front bumper tacked up. Need to get some receiver tubing and tie it into the radiator support (tube under that just bolted in with a couple 8mm bolts for now). Bumper sticks a little farther forward than I'd really like but I wanted to make sure to leave plenty of room for pusher fans, even a little room to shift condenser and radiator forward a bit if we have to. Could barely fit fans behind the front bumper of the black Outback when we added them. Bumper should also be low enough to fit some little light bars under the headlights, might just take the ones off the black Outback and put them on this. Smashed the airbox with the press and a propane torch. Looks pretty rough but should still flow air the same. Will almost certainly go when we put the H6 in anyhow. Maybe this week I'll get an engine, diff, driveshaft, radiator, etc etc etc etc.