Leaderboard

Made a jig and more sano mockup trailing arm. Just used a piece of conduit we'd bent with B's tubing bender. For the actual trailing arms I plan to use 1.5 x .120" 4130 and also turn the sleeve for the front bushing on the lathe. Incredibly bad picture of it installed. Initially hit the knuckle and lateral link at full droop. Hit the wheel near full bump. Modified the box clevis on the rear end for clearance. So we've got a good plan on those now. Side note for those of you living in foreign countries or states. This is what our roads and parking lots look like in the winter time. That's salt, not frost. Picked up an EZ36 last week. Kinda wished I'd tried harder to find one that's more complete though. Junkyards of course normally sell them without accessories, so I bought those separate. But that means I don't have the brackets for them. Had a bracket that worked for the PS pump but the AC compressor is much different. EZ36 on left, EZ30D on right. Need to find a plug and pins to fit this. I got a resurfaced STI flywheel and Exedy clutch kit and B assembled all that and chased the threads in the block. You can see here where the junkyard cut the wires and coolant hose to the throttle body (I assume). They probably did this when they removed the throttle body, didn't even think about them stealing that, now I need to get one of those. Have heard of people using non Subaru. Plan on drive by wire but open to suggestion if there's something better than Subaru since I have to buy one either way. Got a trans mount, still need to install low range in the 6MT. Got a driveshaft and R180. Have engine mounts on order. Got some shiny headers from Australia, last set they had, hopefully we can make them work.

On my 1992 Loyale my son used to honk the horn with his fist :). No surprise that after some time the horn started honking on its own. I removed the top from the steering wheel, bent down those tabs and it is fine since that. Worth to try. Good luck, Sam

Long time.

Nice Standard Hatch, own an '86 STD myself. Basically the least amount of options and frills were put on these... the base of base models. Today that is probably a blessing because there is less to go wrong. Quite a bit of mods to make a fwd hatch into a 4wd; trans, rear driveline, mustache bar mounts, rear diff and axles, fuel tank swap, etc... if you have the 5 speed dual range the rear driveline must be custom as well. The round lights came factory on the STD's. If you want to go quad-light you will need to mod the radiator-core-support, as well as your headlight wiring to match the new light pigtails. The fuel tank is smaller, usually takes less than 10.5 gallons for me to fill up. You probably have the 4wd tank installed, which is different to accept the rear diff and mustache bar. Edit: now that I'm thinking about it, because you have a lift kit on (not sure how many inches the lift blocks are on the back) the lift would make the rear-drive mechanics clear the factory tank. Other things about the STD; Used the 1.6 EA71, instead of the 1.8 EA81 They came with 4-speed fwd, instead of 5-speed. There was no "intermittent" windshield wiper speed. They used the dash and steering wheel from the DL, meaning no Tach. No trip-meter or fuel-low-light either. Stereos usually were not included. There was no rear window defroster. There was not a passenger rear-view mirror. Instead of carpet there is a vinyl/linoleum-like floor that is easier to scrub clean, and doesnt trap dirt as much. There wasn't a console around the shifter, just a rubber boot on the top of the trans tunnel.