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just looked where it looked like the smoke was coming from and there's a broken cv axle right over the exhaust, could this be the problem?

OK, I didn't see those lower "gussets" at first but I like the idea. Should be plenty of room there since I'm not running a turbo. I really want to minimize the welding on this body as I think that's going to make it rust faster but will definitely take a look at mine and see what we can do. Also reminds me it might be a good idea to do a strut tower brace that attaches to the pitch stop mount. But maybe that's why the wiper arm on my black Outback keeps scraping the windshield when we beat on it?

Lower 'frame' on the second gen pic is gusseted at the firewall; that certainly looks stronger. Good point. K

One of the subtle changes Subaru made from the first through third gen Imprezas was tying in the strut towers to the cowl/firewall. First gen Impreza: 2nd gen Impreza: Couldn't find a good pic of a 3rd gen Impreza engine bay, so here's a bad pic instead: It may be worth welding in some sheet metal as a brace there so you add support to both sides of the strut towers. Would be worth doing while the engine is out; just have to avoid the fuel and brake lines that run through there.

Subarino lift?? It’s going to be awesome! I was pestering him for a three inch but I doubt he’ll ever do it, or I’ll ever actually go through with it anyway, I’d rather get his 5 stud conversion once it’s sorted, I’m about 90% there with the kit, I just need a couple of key pieces. Anyway, that project is on the back burner for now. Cheers Bennie

Hey everyone just wanted to post this here incase anyone else has this issue. I didn't see anything come up in my searches and figured it would be good if the process was documented....OEM part numbers and all. I'll keep it quick. Got my 88 GL Dual Range about 2 years ago now. Reverse lights have never worked and besides being dangerous it just bothered me. I finally figured it out! ****** PICTURES ARE LINKED FOR REFERENCE On the rear case of the transmission, about 7" in from the shifter rod, on the drivers side you'll find the Back Lamp Assembly. Looks like a bolt with 2 wires coming out of the side. This can be removed with a 19mm wrench. It's a bit tricky to get to the plug, you have to un-do two metal "clamps" that hold the wires for this assembly and others. The "clamps" are located between the top of the transmission and underbody of the car. Find someone with small hands to help you haha. Anyway, this switch has a little plastic piece that gets depressed when you shift into reverse, the circuit then closes and the reverse lights come on. I think there are two reasons for my reverse light failure. 1) plastic nub on switch worn and cannot produce a closed circuit. 2) wires were falling apart. (as you'll see below) This part can still be purchased new from the dealer (I just got on from my local Subaru Dealer) although some sites list that it is no longer in production. I paid $36 (can be got for cheeper, i've seen it for $25) Link to the schematic of the transmission is here, this one is for a turbo, which I do not have, but it's just about in the same position. Back Lamp Assembly is #5 on the diagram. Diagram > https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1990_Loyale-WAGON-TURBO/_80160_6027483/MT--REAR-CASE/A11-120-01.html Can Purchase Here > https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SWITCH-ASSEMBLY-BACK-LAMP/49242840/32005AA030.html It's interesting that this switch functions similarly to the Neutral Safety Switch. Actually they are just about identical (besides the plug ends)....makes me wonder if they can be interchanged....I did a bit of cross referencing and it looks like newer manual Subarus also have both of these switches, so if these part numbers go bad we might be able to pull from newer models. Images are from my old Back Lamp Assembly....as you can see it's toast.....