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To keep the off-road 4WD theme consistent, I always thought the side of my wagon should display an OEM looking "4WD" logo that matched the ones on the tail gate and the mud flaps. It's been raining here so I spent some time indoors on my cheap eBay laser cutter and came up with this graphic for the left and right rear doors. I also made one to go over the rear logo as it was very sun bleached. It's not perfect but neither am I.

Haven't accomplished a lot in the last couple weeks, been sick and busy with other things. Still need to get the throttle body sorted at a minimum before we put the engine in. Will hopefully have engine mounts this week. Biggest thing we accomplished was swapping in the R180. Left to right, "one bolt" (earlier) R160, "five bolt" (later) R160, R180. Some studs and plugs swapped over. Definitely one good reason Subaru has a Lego reputation. After swapping over those studs the R180 bolts right in. Weights are 37# (1 bolt R160), 47# (5 bolt R160), 57# R180. 5 bolt R160 is definitely a 4.11 open diff, I assume the 1 bolt is open also but probably 3.7 or 3.9. I was shocked how much weight difference there was between the R160s. Had to trim one of the little diff mount brackets so it would sit flush on the R180. While we had this out I cut the tuned mass damper (?) off. Surprisingly only weighs 1#, seems heavier. Thinking by adding 20# of rear diff we've ruined whatever NVH tuning that was supposed to accomplish. STI driveshaft appears it will just bolt in. Looks to be a little on the short side, anyone know if the splined part towards the rear is supposed to telescope? There's definitely splines under the rubber cover but we couldn't get it to budge. Looks like we need to make the rear lateral links a little longer than what we'd mocked up for the R160 but I think then they'd work with either diff. Still need to machine the RR billet knuckle, started programming that the other day. B and I also worked on putting a planetary low range in my other STI 6MT. He swapped over the various reverse lockout parts, etc. Unfortunately the rear output shaft has about .008" (.2mm) endplay so I need to get a thicker shim and swap that out.

I saw this on FB today. Anyone able to save this 82 4WD GL manual wagon at Copart in Hayward, California? Ad says it has mechanical damage. Sure looks good and I don't see any bids nor a reserve price. I put the link here figuring the right people would see it here more readily than in the sales forum. https://www.copart.com/lot/72538352/clean-title-1982-subaru-gl-4wd-ca-hayward

Oh yeah. They can get seriously wedged in there. If it’s an automatic you can remove the axle from the hub first. Then yank hard on the axle and it’ll pull the stubby shaft out of the trans. It’s just held in with a circlip. bw careful when it comes out that you don’t damage the shaft seal in the trans then you can at least work at it on easier or ask a machine shop to do it. Ive had plenty of objects jammed in there and gotten them out every time on the vehicle. Use a proper sized punch and tap it back the opposite way it was jammed in there while wiggling, wriggling and cussing for a long time. They’ve always come out but often with a lot of effort and tools available. a drill bit can work but they’re brittle and break easily with impact. If you had to try one again use them backwards so the drill side which is flat is entering the cv joint hole first. If it’s a manual the shaft can’t be removed and you have to get that hole freed up.

The stubby shaft stays with the transmission, it's not part of the axle. Punch the pin out (3/16" I think) and the axle slides right off the stubby shaft. Slide the new axle on and punch the pin back in. Keep in mind the axle only slides onto that stubby shaft one way. The holes line up two ways but it can be 180 degrees off. Look at the splines and how they are oriented with the holes. One side the valley is in the middle, the other side the peak is in the middle of the hole. Hard to explain but just look at how the splines interact with the two holes in the CV alxe cup when you remove it and you'll see. You guessed right. They are configured and installed exactly like EJ axles. I have EJ axles on mine (though it takes some extra steps to convert, they don't directly swap although I've seen people do it before!).

I don't use the carrier box that often but don't like taking it on and off and then storing it some place. I actually have filled the back of the wagon several times recently doing supply runs for work (bulky, lightweight stuff) and needed more room. I think a rack would better serve me and can stay there when it is empty with little effect. It won't need stored off-season and also is easier to load the top since what I put up there doesn't really need rain or theft protection. I'm ordering one of these and giving it a try. The cargo box is up for sale locally for about what it will cost to buy a rack.