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Originally put this together for a friend, then realized it might be helpful to others wanting to do an STI swap. Basically everything you'd need to upgrade the drivetrain. Prices are roughly what I've paid in the last few months in US dollars. Yes you can use an automatic driveshaft and swap the flange from R160 to R180 but the STI driveshaft has significantly bigger u joints. If you find the right swap kit you can probably get a cheaper total price but I already had the trans. That's what I did in my black Outback, for instance just used the stock clutch and flywheel and only replaced the disc and release bearing. Can also buy a lot of these things from the dealer but they're more expensive. Conversely some of it you can buy on rockauto etc for close to used prices but I'd rather have factory parts for most of this. $2500 trans used 2006+ to fit our planetary low range $200 driveshaft used - get one same wheelbase as the car you're putting it in, 2007 STI seems to fit first gen Impreza perfect, got a newer one that fit my Legacy Outback. $715 diff used 2006+ $150 shifter used -2013? at some point they made the shifter longer I've been told $150 flywheel used but resurfaced $10 flywheel bolts (800610740) $8 flywheel pilot bearing (816212020) $12 flywheel dust cover (30216AA070) IMO required for off pavement use $6 pressure plate bolts (800508310) $450 clutch/pressure plate/release bearing Exedy FJK1000 from Rock Auto, looks like rallysportdirect is cheaper but not in stock $92 ACT monoloc from IAG - definitely optional $70 clutch slave used $10 clutch line 37250FE052 $23 clutch hose 37251FE030 $2 clutch hose banjo bolt 112925161 $2 clutch hose crush washers 114130151 $104 Trans mount 6MT 41022FE010 $75 starter used Probably not required but in order to run female front axles you need: $96 front axle stubs 4EAT 38415AA070 $5 front axle stub seals RF806730031 $5 front axle stub seals LF806730032 $2 snaprings for front axle stubs 805329010 Also since my car is an auto I needed: $35 clutch master used $75 STI pedals used (I think any Subaru manual trans pedals would work, looks like even Forester pedals would bolt in) Finally, you need one of the following: STI CV axles (rear at least), knuckles/hubs, brakes - can't fit 15s and are a larger wheel bolt pattern Slammo says "04 STi rear knuckles let you stay 5x100 and use stock 04 STi rear axles with an R180, and you can fit the WRX 2-pot calipers without adapters, but you have to use special rotors since the STi parking brake drum is a bigger diameter" but those 04 STI rear knuckles are rare. Suberdave's conversion races - maybe these would work OK on a lighter car if driven carefully but then what's the point? Definitely the cheapest route but at least moves the weak link to the axle which can be replaced in the field in a reasonable amount of time. Billet rear knuckles and R180 to front CV axle stubs - probably cheaper than STI knuckles, hubs, and brakes, and I think the best solution for reasons already discussed.

Yes I was going to get a diff to swap in to see if it made any difference...except the only one in the wreckers yard was a 3.9 ratio! Ended up taking the gearbox home with me as well. Both will be professionally rebuilt then go into the wagon. Been a while since I updated this thread because I haven't done anything on it until now...the weekend before I'm due to go away on a 4WD trip next long weekend which I took an extra day off work for and everything. I've been driving the car with the rear axles removed for ages cos I got sick of the vibe and was at a dead end re fixing it. Well last weekend I had to replace the rear wheel bearings (not enough grease in them, they were howling) and decided to put the axles back in while I was there. Tried to get it up to highway speed that same day but couldn't because of heavy traffic. I got it up to highway speed about mid day yesterday and well...I thought the car was going to rattle to pieces. The vibe was worse than ever, so bad I couldn't see anything in the mirrors because they were shaking so much, high frequency vibration. So, I kinda freaked out because there was a 8+ hour road trip only a few days away... Ended up going back to the yard I got the g/box + diff from and taking the 2 piece tailshaft from that L series as well. Had to cut through a 10mm bolt with a hacksaw blade to get it out since the center bearing mount had spun the captive nut. And so my weekend went, yesterday and today frantically creating a center bearing mount for the 2-piece using what I had laying around. Was grinding till about 7:30 last night and I was back into it 7:30 this morning, got to test drive it about 6PM tonight (have to get to work tomorrow too, no stress!) well and truly tired and fed up. If it didn't work I probably would have cried. Instead I almost cried tears of joy because...the vibration is gone! Completely! 100% fixed. Couldn't quite believe it myself, have been fighting this issue for so long, 18 months probably. Amazing what a deadline will do in regards to motivation! Ended up going the crossmember style mount. It was made from 2" square by 1/8" wall tube and some 3/16" flat bar reinforcing. It's many times stronger than the floor it's bolted to. Not really happy with the strength of the floor. When I've got more time I'll make up a strap out of flat bar that hugs the tunnel on the interior and join the two mounting nuts together. At the moment I welded the nuts to some large square bits of 3/16" plate to spread the load a bit.

after 142 in the electrical section, on the foldout section for the 2.7l in section b2