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88-91 XT relays are on the upper left of the photo you posted, above that brownish connector tucked agaisnt the side wall behind the fuse panel. But how can a relay fail and still allow the car to start and run for a moment? Sounds like a waste of time to me but maybe someone can chime in which relay (fuel pump?) and how they fail that allows them to prime and start but not run? I'd pull the fuel line first and see if fuel flows out like normal. Remove fuel clamp, point hose in bucket while priming and trying to start the vehicle. If you're not sure what the flow is supposed to look like video it and post a link. It should roughly look like a garden hosing flow water. Or of course even better - the proper test is to put a Tee in with a fuel pressure gauge.

There is a feature that has an alert whenever the speed limit changes as a warning when you enter a different speed limit or exceed the posted limit. Is what you're hearing a beep similar to when the eyesite locks in or a different tone?

Yes I was going to get a diff to swap in to see if it made any difference...except the only one in the wreckers yard was a 3.9 ratio! Ended up taking the gearbox home with me as well. Both will be professionally rebuilt then go into the wagon. Been a while since I updated this thread because I haven't done anything on it until now...the weekend before I'm due to go away on a 4WD trip next long weekend which I took an extra day off work for and everything. I've been driving the car with the rear axles removed for ages cos I got sick of the vibe and was at a dead end re fixing it. Well last weekend I had to replace the rear wheel bearings (not enough grease in them, they were howling) and decided to put the axles back in while I was there. Tried to get it up to highway speed that same day but couldn't because of heavy traffic. I got it up to highway speed about mid day yesterday and well...I thought the car was going to rattle to pieces. The vibe was worse than ever, so bad I couldn't see anything in the mirrors because they were shaking so much, high frequency vibration. So, I kinda freaked out because there was a 8+ hour road trip only a few days away... Ended up going back to the yard I got the g/box + diff from and taking the 2 piece tailshaft from that L series as well. Had to cut through a 10mm bolt with a hacksaw blade to get it out since the center bearing mount had spun the captive nut. And so my weekend went, yesterday and today frantically creating a center bearing mount for the 2-piece using what I had laying around. Was grinding till about 7:30 last night and I was back into it 7:30 this morning, got to test drive it about 6PM tonight (have to get to work tomorrow too, no stress!) well and truly tired and fed up. If it didn't work I probably would have cried. Instead I almost cried tears of joy because...the vibration is gone! Completely! 100% fixed. Couldn't quite believe it myself, have been fighting this issue for so long, 18 months probably. Amazing what a deadline will do in regards to motivation! Ended up going the crossmember style mount. It was made from 2" square by 1/8" wall tube and some 3/16" flat bar reinforcing. It's many times stronger than the floor it's bolted to. Not really happy with the strength of the floor. When I've got more time I'll make up a strap out of flat bar that hugs the tunnel on the interior and join the two mounting nuts together. At the moment I welded the nuts to some large square bits of 3/16" plate to spread the load a bit.