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My apologies, I was thinking of GL/DL which uses 2 sets of contacts to supply power to the TBI ECM. My GL behaved the same way as his XT - start, rise to 2000 + rpm, then die. Would not idle. Looked over the Haynes manual electrical schematic for 86 MPFI: The green fusible link powers a single contact ignition relay to ECM on MPFI(wht/red wire). Fuse 11 powers the fuel pump relay(blk/wht wire). Green fusible link powers fuel pump and Aux air valve(blu wire).

Thanks for the insight on the repairs and cores. I haven't seen any heater cores available, let alone an all-metal solution. I find them listed for sale many places but when I actually move the part to the shopping cart it becomes "unavailable". I figure I will do a bypass for now so I can keep driving while I search for a solution. I might have to create my own with help from the local radiator shop.

Yes, will need to talk with a certifier re getting the rails cut. Diff output is 25 spline on the box I have - it's a legacy one. Might see if I can get an Impreza one though (or just split it and chuck in an LSD and 23 spline shafts). From the Legacy service manual I have, they did actually do a disc brake rear end with the 2wd model. Might have to try track a setup down... I think I'll probably just throw my spare clutch in, replace the wheel bearings, and call it a day for now.

he did say fuel was OK, but I was gonna suggest trying some starting fluid in the intake to see if it will run longer.

There's a $300 bid on it with about 1 day to go so maybe it will be saved.

Still need a few parts before we put the engine and trans in. B replaced some of the coolant hoses and put the Kein engine mounts on. I put the used H6 radiator in. Bottom lines up perfect, need to move the top mounts but that'll be easy. It'll be tight with the EZ36 even with no fans. Modified the trailing arm fixture to also fixture longer lateral links. Tacked up a set. Waiting on Whiteline bushings so we can easily test fit these. Much easier to swap in and out than the stock bushings. B's driveshaft has been vibrating occasionally. He thought it was the center support bearing. He filled the old one out of his green Forester with urethane and then swapped it out. As he was doing that he noticed the front u-joint on his driveshaft was extremely worn, probably missing all the needles in two cups. Good thing he replaced it but the one he just put in vibrates over 55mph. Didn't get marked when it got disassembled so we'll probably try clocking it 180. TT called today and told me the writing on the rear diff of the red Impreza was just his way of telling me when he'd replaced the fluid. So that five bolt diff is probably stock. Maybe the one bolt diffs were a base model automatic thing?

Yes I was going to get a diff to swap in to see if it made any difference...except the only one in the wreckers yard was a 3.9 ratio! Ended up taking the gearbox home with me as well. Both will be professionally rebuilt then go into the wagon. Been a while since I updated this thread because I haven't done anything on it until now...the weekend before I'm due to go away on a 4WD trip next long weekend which I took an extra day off work for and everything. I've been driving the car with the rear axles removed for ages cos I got sick of the vibe and was at a dead end re fixing it. Well last weekend I had to replace the rear wheel bearings (not enough grease in them, they were howling) and decided to put the axles back in while I was there. Tried to get it up to highway speed that same day but couldn't because of heavy traffic. I got it up to highway speed about mid day yesterday and well...I thought the car was going to rattle to pieces. The vibe was worse than ever, so bad I couldn't see anything in the mirrors because they were shaking so much, high frequency vibration. So, I kinda freaked out because there was a 8+ hour road trip only a few days away... Ended up going back to the yard I got the g/box + diff from and taking the 2 piece tailshaft from that L series as well. Had to cut through a 10mm bolt with a hacksaw blade to get it out since the center bearing mount had spun the captive nut. And so my weekend went, yesterday and today frantically creating a center bearing mount for the 2-piece using what I had laying around. Was grinding till about 7:30 last night and I was back into it 7:30 this morning, got to test drive it about 6PM tonight (have to get to work tomorrow too, no stress!) well and truly tired and fed up. If it didn't work I probably would have cried. Instead I almost cried tears of joy because...the vibration is gone! Completely! 100% fixed. Couldn't quite believe it myself, have been fighting this issue for so long, 18 months probably. Amazing what a deadline will do in regards to motivation! Ended up going the crossmember style mount. It was made from 2" square by 1/8" wall tube and some 3/16" flat bar reinforcing. It's many times stronger than the floor it's bolted to. Not really happy with the strength of the floor. When I've got more time I'll make up a strap out of flat bar that hugs the tunnel on the interior and join the two mounting nuts together. At the moment I welded the nuts to some large square bits of 3/16" plate to spread the load a bit.