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OEM for most things, after market parts just suck anymore. Clutch you can run Exedy from the supplier of your choice. Have your flywheel resurfaced or just replace it. I doubt the engine has to come out to do this job, I didn't have to on my 2002. I'm not familiar with the 97 though. I would also suggest flushing the clutch fluid, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and radiator. Did the car sit with gas in it? Was it stabilized? If not, drain the tank and flush the lines before starting the car. Fluids and such you can buy at an auto parts store or Wal-Mart. If you're in a state that Rock Auto will ship to they are usually a reliable source, just pay attention to the grade you are buying. Post questions when you know what parts you actually need.

Awesome! I'm far, far away from being a Subie expert but I can look at an issue with basic logic. Why would the factory go to the trouble and expense of using 2-piece drive shaft design when a single shaft would have been cheaper and easier? I look at my own 4WD 87 DL wagon or even my 2WD 87 Mazda B2000. Both use 2-piece drive shafts with a center carrier bearing which at first glance just seem like more u-joints and bearings that are going to fail one day. But here comes logic again. Why go to all that trouble? I'll guarantee you the factories had to solve a problem. Why build that extra cost and complexity into a high-production, low-margin vehicle unless you had no other option? Google can find all kinds of reasons why a 2-piece shaft might be better than 1-piece and my guess in this case it was to reduce noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). It could also have been a driveline drop issue on a 4WD vehicle with the exhaust so close and wheel drop in the rear possible leading to interference. Which one is the reason here does not matter to me. Engineers are constantly pressured to reduce cost and complexity so nothing stays in production long-term if it isn't worth the trouble and guess what? Plenty of new vehicles still come with factory 2-piece driveshafts.

Mudrat79 sent me an email regarding this a while ago: Haven't seen your mail yet, But I'll assume its regarding steering... The reason behind steering issues is that the 1800 motor to tranny bellhousing is about 2 inches wider overall to the 1600 and you will severely rub steering if you don't have the 180 crossmember or modified steering. I'll try to explain it here, if it gets confusing, call me when you have the car torn down, and you can look directly at all the steering gear. Start with pulling the tin plate off. Then at the bottom of steering gear you will have the round rubber damper plate bolted down with 4 12mm nuts and Bolts, 2 will be mounted to upper steering gear, and 2 opposing ones will be mounted to ears on lower gear coming out o the rack. Measure the distance from the Lower easrs to the upper knucke up where it mounts to the steering column coming out the firewall, write this number down and be very critical about it. Now unbolt everything from the lower gear and the ears. You should have the rubber damper and a shaft and the upper knuckle in your hand at this point. Now, unbolt the unit that is left down at the rack that those ears are part of. It will be held in place by 1 or 2 12mm bolts. It will have a bearing on it and go down into the rack as a worm gear. Using a hacksaw or cutoff saw if you have one, cut this unit directly below the ears so that you have a round shaft left no welds, and no ear tabs. Now unbolt the rubber damper off the upper steering gear , and cut the shaft unit that had the ears bolted to the damper, also directly above the ears. Now you will need to find a piece of round tubing somewhere that will fit tightly over both the upper and Lower steering gear you just cut all the ear tabs off of. If I remember correctly, it is 5/8" O.D. and 1/2" I.D. Jig all of it up so that welded together, it measures your original measurement, tack weld it together, and test fit it in place stick lower end in first, and then upper knuckle. With it in place, get 2 or 3 bodies on the front of the car, and check steering both ways, bodies are to sub in for motor and tranny, axles sit differently with weight in car. If all is right, you should be able to get full steer, and Not rub axle, plus you've gained the room that you need to stuff 1800 tranny and Motor in. As I said, Call me if you have issues. Later, John in Oregon... Hope this helps everyone! If it does, send John a big thank you email!