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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/23 in all areas

  1. Y'all were right: it was the timing. When I got everything off the front of the engine, I could see that both cams were advanced about half dozen teeth relative to the crank. I have no idea how I did that. When we put it together the first time, we got the lines on the belt on the marks on the sprockets, and stood back and admired it, and looked twice...and somehow we got it wrong. So, we reinstalled the belt, and got the lines on the belt on the marks on the sprockets, and looked twice, and somehow we got it right, because this time it started right up. Thanks for your help!
    3 points
  2. Yes, pull the engine it will make the jobs much easier. Reseal the rear breather plate behind the flywheel when you have it off. Don't mess with the rear main crank seal. The Subaru seals last forever. It's the breather plate that starts leaking.
    1 point
  3. John's subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon has distributors.
    1 point
  4. The wire that goes into the nut attachment on the back side of the alternator, can get hot, brittle and lose conductivity before it breaks altogether. That used to give me that code. Otherwise, do a search of my posts on here where I list about a dozen different electrical problems that cause engine failure and/or failure to start.
    1 point
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