Leaderboard

I'm right here, guys. Yes the 82 wagon is mine. It actually gotdelivered to Maine today. It may actually be one of the most rust free I have had, although a few minor spots here and there. It runs great and needs a few things, so stay tuned. And yes, Paul is correct, it is paint code 259 Cream Yellow, just like my 84 wagon! Surprise, I also bought the 81 wagon in Boise ID as well!

Y'all were right: it was the timing. When I got everything off the front of the engine, I could see that both cams were advanced about half dozen teeth relative to the crank. I have no idea how I did that. When we put it together the first time, we got the lines on the belt on the marks on the sprockets, and stood back and admired it, and looked twice...and somehow we got it wrong. So, we reinstalled the belt, and got the lines on the belt on the marks on the sprockets, and looked twice, and somehow we got it right, because this time it started right up. Thanks for your help!

Hi All, I've got an 87 BRAT with about 200k miles on it that i've been daily driving for the past 5 years. Great truck! Recently i drove off during an evening, hit the high beam switch, and the lights just went out. Dash lights still on, but both high and low beams on both sides go dark. Pop it back to low position and the low beams come back on. Fuses in the box by my left knee are good. I popped the plastic off the column and cleaned out the areas around the column switch. Sprayed some contact cleaner into the visible contacts that the selector uses, and still no dice. The wiring of the column switch looks like a pain in the rump roast, so before i try unhooking it and either taking it apart to fix something or get a junkyard one to replace it, i figure i should see if anyone knows of any alternative spot the problem could be. Maybe an inline fuse somewhere? If anyone has any thoughts on possible causes or experience with swapping out the column switch i'd be grateful for any advice. Thanks!

yup, definitely depends on the parts... Plugs - NGK copper cores - you dont need to waste money on anything fancy Plug Wires - OEM or NGK only Timing components - OE is usually best - an Aisin kit is ok, including water pump (gasket needs to be metal, not paper) - forget Gates they went to Chinese components Oil filters - Wix brand is probably your best option here - stay away from Fram. Try to stick to well known names for things like brakes, etc... OE for axles (new or used) Some stuff you will only find at a Subaru parts supplier - online stores are good, but shop around for the best pricing (including shipping!) as some are better than others, depending on the part.

Depends on parts. Subaru only: head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, spark plug wires (or get NGK elsewhere), axles (used are fine), water pump gasket, wheel bearings, timing components, radiator cap and thermostat. Rockauto for brakes, and brake hardware, air filter, oil filters, and many other things you can tolerate shipping for Your favorite local retailer like advance, autozone Oreilly etc. NGK plug wires only KYB struts only

Does the rotor spin when you crank the engine? If not then you broke the left side timing belt. Can you get spark to the plugs as a timing light will show you, by plugging into each plug wire and grounding to plug? If yes, then you can check the timing at about 24 degrees BTDC, for No. 1 (front right) cylinder. Best to put some white paper white out paint on the 24 degree mark first. If you cannot see the white mark then your timing is way off, perhaps the timing belts jumped a tooth. The GL10 distributors have a short life expectancy. Better find a backup to always have on hand and to install here. If you have no spark and the rotor spins, then you probably have a bad cylinder. Buy used from John's Subaru in Laurelwood, Oregon, or get hosed on Ebay. Wires that get hard, brittle and stop conducting electricity are the hot wire into the back of the alternator, the engine ground wire at the body end, and the hot wire from the hot battery terminal wire to the bottom of the fusible link box (at the terminal wire end). The timing probably got off somehow, perhaps from the timing belts loosening up that allowed the timing belts to jump a tooth. Adjust timing belt tension in the front rubber pop out covers, with a 12mm socket, and don't lose it inside of the covers.

Thought I would do a couple posts on some of the detail mods I did. First was correcting the speedometer. I scanned the stock speedo face and rebuilt it adjusting for the larger tire size I would be running. I work as a graphic designer, so recreating the speedo face on the computer was easy to do. I printed it on heavy stock and then affixed it with double-sided tape to a piece of plastic I cut to size. While I was at it I upped the redline on the tach for the EJ22 I was dropping in. This was an early test with the lights on. I think I reprinted them to match the stock orange color a little better soon after. Overall, this was one of my favorite mods on the build.

No prob! Hopefully providing some inspiration for others with their builds. I know seeing a good build thread gets me pumped for my own projects and gets me coming up with all kinds of ideas. Still got a few more to share, too.