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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/03/23 in all areas

  1. Here is my collection of CTS info -
    1 point
  2. I would be ripping the centre from the old thermostat just to run it without that interference for diagnostic purposes to see if it does the same thing. I ran EA82T for years without thermostat and have had no issues with temps or fuel mixtures - none of what nay sayers have claimed will occur. Things may be different if I drove it in traffic.
    1 point
  3. Are you needing to add coolant to the system at all? Grounds on the engine good and wiring to the sender unit not damaged? You could try wiggling it and watch what the temp gauge is doing, this will show up any wiring issues. Nothing near the sender unit that could ground it to give the false reading? Old mate that did the HGs - did they put the painted head bolts in the centre two holes? The other four are unpainted (on the head of the bolt) and these go in the outside headbolt holes. Asking as this always catches ppl out the first time they do a HG on these engines. Have you done an exhaust gas in coolant check just to be sure this isn’t the issue? Cheers Bennie
    1 point
  4. Is the radiator cap new and OEM? Maybe it's not quite holding pressure, gets hot, seals and cools back down? I had a similar issue with a bad water pump gasket though my issue impacted my cabin heat more than anything. Engine temp did fluctuate a little bit. Best I could tell is system was sealed when everything was expanded and then would suck air in when it cooled down. I didn't really have much of a coolant leak so I never had to add coolant.
    1 point
  5. Negative. I've owned this car since mid 2000 and have done most of the maintenance myself.
    1 point
  6. With multiple occurrences during a single driving event then I doubt it is a bad sender. Do you see any other signs that it is actually running hot or is it only because what the gauge reports? Do you hear detonation or pinging or any other signs that it is truly that hot? Do you have access to a cheap BBQ thermometer? You could wrap the sensor around a heater hose and then watch the temps while you drive as a second way to confirm that the temps are really rising and falling that much. I use a unit that I found at Wal-Mart for $15. This one has 2 channels so you could put the other sensor on the radiator hose to document the temps there too. I sometimes put the sensor on the inlet and outlet hose of the radiator just to observe the temperature drop I'm getting while city or freeway driving. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Thermometer-Digital-Instant-Grilling/dp/B093KNZ3X9/ref=sr_1_17?crid=2QYAI5WOYEC4E&keywords=remote+bbq+thermometer&qid=1677766260&sprefix=remote+bbq+therm%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-17
    1 point
  7. Took it to the track for the clubs summer series. Upgraded the front springs to 450lbs. It made a difference, way better under braking and better through the corners. Still not quite where I want it. Unable to really push it coming into corner but more steady in the rear than last track outting. Results Qualifying , the little sleeve of rubber that goes over the throttle cable slipped down and got caught in the throttle and jammed it on full throttle. First race made up a few spots 2nd race reverse grip got more confident with the handling ended up in 3rd but the 2 guys in front of me broke out, so 1st for me. 3rd race handy cap based on lap times. Flag drop per group So might be 5 second behind the slowest car the next flag drop and maybe another 5 second to the next flag drop and so on. Slowest first off and fastest last. Got 1st in that race but broke out on the last lap by 300s of a second Now it not fast yet and I'm in the slowest class, but under full boost I can feel it will be allot quicker. Problems Apart from the bit of rubber throttle jam up only one other problem. The same as last time. The boost fluctuation. jumping between 6 and 10 psi under load. Sounds like the clutch is slipping. We changed the boost solenoid but didn't fix it? Check for leeks this weekend Anyway a fun day had by all
    1 point
  8. Radiator isn’t blocked? How many miles has it driven since the work? Did the symptoms start immediately or after a month? How often does it do this - once a day or week? Look for a pattern when it overheats. Coming off a long sustained drive (like exiting an interstate or driving back roads and stopping more in city)? Going up hills or coasting or night and day or ambient temps.
    1 point
  9. My current daily. Pardon the lack of being Historic but it’s certainly classic enough in my state. Just more pics testing and a little fun. Cheers !
    1 point
  10. ^ noice! What gear bag are you running with it? Best bit about the EJs is the parts availability and the extra performance over the (generally old clapped out) EA donk! Cheers Bennie
    0 points
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