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exhaust blockage? maybe a piece of a cat. conv. is shifting around???

Oddly I’ve not heard about this being an issue in Australia - but then again I’m not a mechanic that sees loads of these vehicles week in, week out. I doubt it has much to do with a dropped valve guide. Cheers Bennie

It could be good once cleaned up and made into a glass-top coffee table Magazines (what are those these days?!) or newspapers could be stored in the cylinders Cheers Bennie

sometimes, spraying water from a plant mister at the high voltage parts at night will show arcing - and maybe cause missing. dropped/shifted valve guide?

correlation does not imply causation. i doubt very much that the fuel change caused the problem (unless the fuel was bad for some reason), it just happened to be coincidental. 24 yr old wires are more likely the culprit. Yes, the OE wires do tend to last a long time, but good grief, even they will fail eventually, Replacements should be either new OE or NGK ONLY. Anything else is a waste of your time, effort and money.

Geez mate fair shake of the sauce bottle pointing the bone at the EJ being the issue. It’s simple - don’t do your maintenance, don’t get a good ride! At that age/number of kms the fuel pump probably needs to be replaced too - I’d be doing it as preventative maintenance. The EJ engines are good engines - they crap all over the EA82 by a long shot and some of them do well in the longevity department to be up there with the EA81 - with more power and good economy to boot. They’re not rocket science and before you go there they don’t scan your brain and report back to the government Stick with the proven formula - NKG spark plugs and leads, leave the gaps unless you’re running on LPG. I bet your fuel RON increase will have little to do with it. As for pinging, the older your engine is the more likely it is to ping from ring wear and increased oil consumption as a result. I’m sure you know about this already. Sorry, crap day while feeling like crap, not meaning to be an arsehole about it if it comes across that way. Bennie

Well, from what I know the build log for Angus' BRAT conversion is over on the Openinverter forums. I know for sure that you don't need a clutch, since neither of us use one, instead there's a steel coupler which mates onto the output shaft of the motor and uses the spline from the clutch to mate into the transmission, so the major sticking point here would be the strength of the weld holding the clutch spline onto the coupler. As to the end weight, I can't speak to how much that one weighs, but due to the differences between the two builds that feels immaterial. Really the only thing we share between the two builds is the motor, he's using battery modules from a Tesla Model 3 whereas I'm reusing the pack I pulled from the Leaf, and I'm pretty sure he's using different control electronics to send commands to the motor. But from my own research and some guesstimation, I would say that his conversion probably weighs somewhere in the range of 2500-2600lbs, and once it's done mine should be pretty similar, since the car's base weight is slightly lighter but my battery is a bit heavier as well.

If you have questions, let me know. It was.all.pretty straightforward. I was no able to get it out without discharging the AC system. Make sure.you have something handy to hold the steering column up, you don't want to pull the firewall grommet out. Also, the airbag module has to be removed and is a toex head. I'm not sure what size it is, I just used vice grips in the head since I didn't have the right size. The bolts aren't in super tight. If you don't have trim/panel tools, get some.