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And everything worked fine, thanks to God:

Aquired this and plan to get back to original, might motor covert it later down the track....definatly want to track down a twin headlight front rather than the quad... but we will see what happens, have found a 2nd one, unsure if its for sale, need to do some digging on that still. Needs a fair bit of rust done, have started stripping it, currently have gutted the interior, and full loom etc, only have motor and glass to remove

Once the Lifters were Ready, I had to ask to a local friend who has a small repair shop, his kind help and letting me to pull the engine in its place with his tools...

So, I did a Double challenge, long term experiment with these Coverless Timing Belts, One challenge was mileage lifespan (to reach certain Mileage) and the other challenge was time lifespan (Endurance in time); and the Coverless Belts definitely Surpassed both challenges by far, with flying colors, way better than the covered ones, due to multiple reasons; but someting to consider is that here, in Central America / Honduras, climate tend to be very Stable and Never Snows; however, the belts were exposed to mud, dust, small gravel, small branches and different fluid spills, even an accidental screwdriver dropage during this more than a decade long test / experiment, everything was Repelled by the spinning belts, even they cleansed by themselves, due to their centrifugal action. You can read Further, see photos and discuss the subject, Here: ~► https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123470-timin-belt-covers/page/3/#elControls_1408538 Kind Regards.

10mm ratcheting wrench for those lower rear bolts. Game changer for those two bolts. A short enough height ratchet and socket can work but much more annoying.

Love the addition of the hi/lo shift levers over the cables. Looks like you are about finished mocking up the rear suspension. The entire skid plate frame looks well executed. Everything I'm seeing is an improvement over the Outback... man, you are taking this car to the next level! K

I've done a lot of stupid things with the EJ platform, most notably and possibly applicable on the 22. Granted the EJ20 I had was amazing and never had any issues in the time I've owned it. However, I did have a 22 blow a piece from exhaust valve #1 while accelerating up a steep incline, thankfully it blew out of the exhaust pipe and the car still got me home. It stumbled and ran like crap for months I couldn't afford to tear into the engine. I found out later that I blew out this valve chunk during a head gasket repair, which I thought was the cause. I had ran the machine for about a thousand miles with leaking valve guide seals and 0 compression on one cylinder unknowingly. Perhaps check compression? The same engine, a few months later... I was running without a timing belt cover and was driving through snow deeper than the headlights. I caught a chunk of ice and spun the driver side cam 4 teeth out of time. The car still got me home, but was hard to start and also ran better than a garbage can. Perhaps verify timing? I doubt this will help you much, but the symptoms sound like you need to dive deeper than any fuel issue. As far as I understand the injection system should be extremely happy with 35-40PSI. since you've checked the basics like plugs and ignition coils/wires.... I'd verify timing and compression next. Please forgive me, maybe I missed it. What is your CEL reporting?

Hard to tell from the pictures but this is after some massaging and trimming we did to get the condenser farther forward, maybe 1/2-3/4"? One of the little things we did was to bend the bracket/line on the driver's side (LF) of the condenser to give us a little more room for the radiator. One issue was this corner of the radiator support had a big radius/gusset to it so B notched that out and patched it back in. I have some grommets that will fit that washer for the radiator mount posts. Other side we've got a tube tacked in with a piece of hose for the post. Bottom of radiator will probably also be padded with rubber and will rest on radiator support. Radiator is for a 99-05 Mazda Miata and fits without any trimming or modifications. About a half dozen companies make thicker core aluminum radiators for those cars, this one has a 42mm thick core. Just narrow enough that it sits alongside the passenger side (LF) cam phasers. Unfortunately I think I should find/make some 90 degree bent water necks for the top tank. I might be able to get a hose with a tight enough bend to clear the PS pulley but I want to get one welded on the other side anyhow. While I'm at it I'll probably put a 1.5" water neck in the bottom and at a more downward angle for more clearance to the timing cover. Again, this one would probably work as is but it's smaller than stock (1 3/8"?) and the hose would be very close to the timing cover.

Checking rear suspension travel, interferences, and axle lengths. At full bump the RR inner CV is almost extended all the way, balls are pretty close to the big snapring. Over a half inch from being bottomed out at full droop. LR is a little over 1/4" from being bottomed out at full droop. LR at full bump still has a lot of travel before it's fully extended. So I'll probably shorten the lateral links 1/16 or 1/8". Bottom of shock shaft hits lateral link at full droop, will probably bend lateral links to give a little clearance. This got me thinking about how we could get more travel. The shocks still have some to spare. Springs get close to coil bind and we've actually broken a couple of them so we don't want to work those any harder. Could potentially mount the springs in line with the strut bodies like most the aftermarket does but we seemed to have a lot of friction when we did that. With these axles there's quite a bit of room in both directions before they're the limiting factor. Wheel well is already going to need some rolling at a minimum so more bump travel would require either serious body surgery or more subframe lift. Really just need to tune what we have.

Here you go, rear suspension fully mocked up with fabricated links, front axles, and billet knuckles with bolt on wheel bearings. Might shorten the lateral links a bit but have to check. Should work as is. B and I got the engine and trans skids/mounts mostly fit and tacked up. Trans mount bracket, wanted it to protect the studs. Brackets bolted on in stock crossmember location need to be gusseted/trimmed. It hangs down a little farther than I'd like but is only about 1/4" lower than the headers and I didn't want those to be the lowest point. Should be a bit stronger than most of our engine/trans skids. Needs a few lateral tubes in front of oil pan and headers. And obviously some sheet/plate.

This is How the Instrument Cluster ended up, after the Deep Cleansing and New LED Bulbs Retrofitted, just Before to put it Back in my BumbleBeast: Now to put everything Back together. To put Back the Four Vacuum Hoses for the A/C Control Buttons is Easy, because Subaru Marked each one with Numbers... #1, #2 and #4 ...No Number three! ... ... but the last one is unmarked, as the last Vacuum Plug, so No problem at all. The Problem is to Keep them in Place, because with Age, those becomes Loose and the Tiny metallic plate that goes in their back, attached to the side's screws, isn't enough to keep 'em Hooked. So, I Used four tiny Zip ties, one for each hose and cut their excessive longitude, with scissors: That shall be More than enough. Now Reassembly everything back together. Finally, this are the Results: Somehow I Believe that the Original Designers of this Instrument Cluster, desired that it looked with Great Contrast, white numbers over black background as it looks with daylight... but since the incandescent bulbs emits amber Light, they decided to paint the Numbers with a green tint in the Newer Models, that the newer clusters has. The White illumination gives to the car a Much Modern Feeling, and is not Blinding at all, but Camera Lens tend to exagerate the Glow... it does look as Sharp as a Modern car's LED instrument cluster. Final Notes: ► You can see that the only part that has Green Tint painted behind the numbers on the instrument Cluster, is the Kilometers per Hour numbers, under the Miles per Hour numbers. ► I managed to Fix the Oil Pressure Gauge, just by sliding it slowly with my Finger, 'till it reached the Real "Top" of the readings, then it sat on the right 0 Mark, not under it as it was. The Gauge reads low, but Low is Better than under-zero (Negative) Readings ► The Dimmer Control does work Fine with LED Bulbs. I Uploaded a Video and is in High Definition Let me Know what do you think about the LED instrument Cluster and this Writeup; you can post and comment in the Discussion thread exclusively for this Modification, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led's/ If you find this writeup, Useful, please let me know by hitting the "Like" Button below. I only ask this as a Motivation to continue Sharing my work with you. Kind Regards.