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I am looking for a good home for my Brat. There are some local folks that say they are interested and I wanted to give them and everybody here dibs before I got serious and put it online. I suppose the price is a little negotiable but I'm not sure how negotiable. I've got plenty of pictures to eventually post online if needed. I would REALLY like to thank everybody here because you all have saved my bacon more than once with this Brat. If you have any questions let me know. FOR SALE $10,800 1983 Subaru Brat Four speed manual transmission with dual range four wheel drive. Runs great. 131,000 miles on the chassis. A real classic car that is fun to drive. Reliable enough for daily driver or for a road trip. I am moving out of the country and can’t take it with me. The Good: • Has only minor rust. • Includes removable truck cap. • Has 4 inch lift with 15 inch rims (13 inch is stock). • Rebuilt engine with less than 3000 miles. • Stock carburetor has been replaced with aftermarket Weber. • Includes tow bar, mount, and lights so it can be easily towed. • Some spare parts are included. The Bad: • The rear shocks need to be replaced. • The interior overhead light does not work. • The A/C does not work and needs two new hoses made. • The rally lights need to be wired up. • The reverse lights need to be wired up. • The 4WD indicator lights need to be wired up. The Ugly: • Need to use a button instead of ignition key to start. • Transmission requires some technique for a couple gears. • Some exterior emblems, badges, and trim need to be refurbished. • The minor rust needs to be dealt with soon. james at nontrivial dot org

I don't use specially formulated "break-in" oils. Just the conventional version of what I'll run normally after break-in. 500-1000 miles before changing to anything synthetic should be sufficient. Sometimes I drain the oil at 250 miles or so just to have a look at it and if nothing scary is seen, I'll pour it back in the engine (filtering through a very fine mesh screen) and run another 500 miles on it before the first drain and refill with the oil I plan to use long-term.

Changed all eight old worn Hydraulic Lifters with a set of brand New ones, with their oil filler holes already aggrandized. Changed the old worn valve covers' Seals. Changed both Timing Belts. Changed the worn old Pilot Bearing from the Clutch... ...completely and thoroughly deep Cleansed the Engine Bay and Painted it:

Once the Lifters were Ready, I had to ask to a local friend who has a small repair shop, his kind help and letting me to pull the engine in its place with his tools...

My "BumbleBeast" it has being running with Valvoline's "MaxLife" semi sinthetyc multigrade oils; however it ran on mineral multigrade oils in the past and after all these years and miles, I decided to change the Hydraulic Lifters with a fresh set of new ones with their tiny holes already Drilled in order to improve the oil flow to them. The back from a 5/64" drill bit, fits perfect on the tiny holes, but its cutting knives on its other side are wider up to the next size of it, you'll never know how many of these bits I wasted until I found a suitable one that could drill their metal, it is amazingly hard and even tungsten carbide drill bits were wasted by the dozen... so, it is better idea to get the Hydraulic Lifters to a professional lathe shop and let them do that aggrandizement for you, if you can... in my case I done that manually. Then, a deep cleansing of each Hydraulic Lifter were nessesary. Eating your Favourite Snack and Soda will help you to be Patient enough...