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ISSUE RESOLVED! When I bought this 513303 hub from Detroit Axle, it came in a 2-pack. I spoke with Martin at Detroit Axle customer service. He told me his system shows a 513303 and 513220 hub are interchangeable. He said I may have a damaged part, and he would ship me another 513303. I asked him to send me (2) 513220s since the 513303 isn't working. He agreed to send it. While waiting for the parts to arrive, I bought this magnetic field viewing film from Amazon for $18.99. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BCFM83XB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 When the film arrived, I checked the new 513303 hub from the box and it has 96 magnets in the encoder. When the new hubs arrived, I pulled the suspect one off the car and found it to have 64 magnets in the encoder. The hub on the left is the new 513303. The one on the right is the suspect one. You can easily see the difference. I compared a 513220 and found the bearing housing to be a little different, but it had 96 magnets in the encoder. The hub on the left is the 513303 from the car an the one on the right is the 513220. See the straight sides on the 513220 vs the scalloped sides on the 513303. So I installed a 513220 and took it for a ride. ABS light is off and the speedometer is within 2 mph at 60 mph, which is within normal range according to what I've seen posted out there. I will be returning the defective hub to Detroit Axle. It's worth noting their customer service has been great. They provided me 2 513220 hubs at no charge trusting me to return the 513303s and they sent a return shipping label. I'll be checking every hub I install now with my new magnetic field film before I install it.

Yes - Napa probably does have a cheap Taiwan-made bearing for $15 - but it will be a plain 6207. It will not be a 6207-2RS-C3. The "-2RS" calls out a double-sealed bearing which will be pre-greased and sealed for life. The "-C3" component calls for an electric motor bearing internal clearance spec. If you simply go to a bearing supplier you will get 5 times the bearing (Japanese or US made) for the same money. You will also save on grease and mess as you need only apply a light grease to the new wheel seals, etc - since the 2RS bearings come pre-greased and sealed. This also provides further protection from the elements. If you really want to never do wheel bearings again - get yourself a set of 7207's and set it up for axial thrust loading. Though you may have to play with shims on the inner race pre-load spacer to get it right. I found that a .001" shim ring on the spacer brought my hub temps right down where I wanted them after a test drive. As far as greasing if you use open bearings - pack each bearing completely full and fill the chamber around the spacer about 1/3. Ideally you want about 1/3 of the chamber filled with grease when it heats up and flows. Too much grease is a bad thing as it doesn't allow for expansion. 1/3 chamber capacity is the standard for bearing greaseing. GD