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I'm through inspection!!!!! Let's see about the evap

Happy to bring a rust free Colorado Subaru back to WI for you. I've done half a dozen over the years for family and friends. Enjoy the new to you Subaru,

That vibration could be a drive shaft, it’s possibly running the tripod style inner CV joint driveshaft. Or the tyres are slightly off balance. Cheers Bennie

I suspect the driveline as well. Best to disconnect it at the rear end and see how smooth the joints feel. CV 's can give a vibration on acceleration. Tire ballance is always worth checking. Enjoy your new outback, I consider the second generation to be the best ones made.

Enjoy and best of luck with it.

That’s one tidy looking EA71!

I already obtained the complete Timing Kit but I decided to don't change it yet on this Sorento, until it starts to make noise or until the engine needs servicing. So, I will store the Timing kit for the THETA II 2.4 GDi engine for this USDM 2012 Sorento, untill it could be needed; however I will share here a photo showing the part numbers for each component, as it might be useful in case of someone seeking for such information online: Thanks God the modified Sorento keeps going strong as a Champ. Kind Regards.

OK. I have not looked in here for some time myself. There are two part numbers for four plug ECU and no vacuum unit due to optical system inside and ECU takes control of the spark advance and retard. I do have some diagrams for the US EA82T in the XT, so likely the same for it and any other 4 plug ECU equipped mpfi (which USDM may not have got many, other than in XT4. I will try to get back to you and your rats, in good time

https://flic.kr/p/2paDdEZ

https://flic.kr/p/2paARda test two

I would have new bolts ready for anyone in the future doing this. Although the bearing unit threads should damage before the bolt. In other situations I've had some threads get compressed/damaged doing this before. It also helps to take a huge chisel and just spin the entire wheel bearing in place. Keep pounding one of the bolt hole ears until the bearing assembly starts to turn counter clockwise (or clockwise). It'll get easier once it starts turning. This breaks some of the rust before trying to get it to come out. The chisel can then be turned at a slight angle to help walk the bearing out a millimeter out at a time. Brutal method, and good luck not smashing the disc brake shield, but I've had that work when pounding the bolts from the back didn't on an outback that lived close to coastal salt water/sand. But heat is the bees knees, some of these are absolutely brutal to remove, just don't always have access to that.