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From the old 4X140 wheels page hosted by McBrat at https://www.indysworld.com/subaru/gallery/wheels/wheels.html

Have that scorpion wheel abrasive blasted to remove powder coat, then have all weld beads TIG welded. If there's one crack there could be more developing. Then new powder coat, perhaps all of them(?)

Always wondered if it was that Subaru production kept using the drum brake wheels until ea81 production really got going by mounting only the solid rotor front disc brakes. In other words, lesser curve spokes until advent of vented front discs then sharper curve spokes. Do a search for the 6 lug conversions on Goggle OP. You might find more there in early discussions.

They’re not just rims from drum brake era vehicles - they’re an early EA81/MY rim and they don’t clear the front calipers of the L series. These probably came from the models with solid front discs. They have a curved hub and sunraysia star pattern are the bit with the curve in them. The L series ones are flat with a sharp curve before it joins the rim. I’m unsure if the vented front disc MY/EA81 sunraysia rims have that same style bend in the star like the L series units. I’d have to look at a set (have them out the back on a 1984 Leone). Spacers might clear the front calipers but they’re not an ideal solution in my book. I hope this helps. Cheers Bennie

There are old threads on USMB for this problem. Early drum brake wheels just don't have the proper backspacing curve for disc brakes. Obviously. Hope you didn't pay much for those fb "bargains". Peugeot 505 wheels have the same bolt pattern as Subaru EA cars - 4x140 mm. New Peugot 505 alloys OR, you could do a jy search for Mazda B2200 six lug wheels, drill 2 more holes and open up the center hole with a die grinder & burr to fit. Both the Peugeot and Mazda wheels are 14 x 6 inch. AND, have the backspacing for disc brakes. Much easier to find tires for.

Well, I'm back in town and will be taking another crack at getting it running on Thursday afternoon (it's over at a friends house on the other side of town right now). On your advice, I had him disconnect the battery so the codes will all be cleared by the time I get over there to try and get it running. At this point I'm thinking it isn't the TPS since I've already tried swapping one off my spare parts car and it made no real difference. I'm thinking that if the MAF is bad then it wouldn't throttle up properly because it wouldn't be correctly measuring the increased airflow - and therefore the ECU wouldn't supply the right amount of fuel to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. Logically, that would match the symptoms I've seen so far. But if I'm wrong about that or missing something, please feel free to correct my troubleshooting process. So, based on that theory, today, I pulled the whole top of the airbox assembly (including the MAF) off my parts car to make it quick and easy to swap out the MAF. That will be my next step in trying to troubleshoot this issue. If swapping the top half of the airbox and MAF doesn't help, the next thing I'll try is to swap out the knock sensor (thanks for that suggestion el_freddo). I just watched a u-tube DIY video that showed me exactly where it is located and how to replace it. I'll pull the knock sensor off my parts car tomorrow and take it with me on Thursday. If swapping the MAF doesn't solve the problem then the knock sensor is next. Thanks for all the suggestions and advice guys! You've given me some really good pointers on what to check. The absolute worst-case scenario is that if I can't figure it out & fix it, I'll use my AAA membership to have it towed home where I can work on it at my leisure. Stay tuned - I'll post back to this thread with updates on my progress and what I find. Thanks again for all the helpful suggestions...

Well, since you said "Fired right up after timing belt/water pump kit was installed, but when all was reassembled, car misfired then would not start." First thing I'd check would be the T-Belt. Make sure the timing is correct! Yes you should hear the fuel pump run when you first turn on the key for a few seconds. Subaru fuel pumps are much better than aftermarket pumps! You can just put a little gas into the intake and see if it fires up to check and see if it's Fuel or Spark.

Hi, I suspect a sensor could be incorrect, IE injector plug on CAS or similar. however, since you have indicated fuel I'd start there: - Ensure there is enough petrol and if in doubt put another 20L into it... then check to see if petrol is getting to the rail/front filter, if it is you can assume its not petrol related If its not... then hardwire the pump at the plug to a battery to see if its pumping etc, then you can start eliminating things that make the pump run ie wiring/relays. If it has fuel getting all the way to the rail/filter, then id check if it has spark, if it doesn't have spark then you can start trying to figure that why. If it has spark and fuel, then id compression test it and go from there....