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Final update. By accident, after snapping up a subaru ground wire at a pick n pull, from another low mileage subaru, I installed the second ground wire in parallel with the current engine ground wire to the left side cam shaft cover area. Now, all of the relay switches that I am currently using cooled down to only nominal heating. Consequently, the horror stories that I described above about all of the new relay switches, may not in fact be applicable. So in conclusion, I recommend adding a second in parallel ground wire to your car if you have over 200,000 miles. Heck you may even be able to get those new bad boy LED headlights to work, without screwing up your digital dash and dash dimmers.

Emergency Relay Switch Update. Do not install any new relay switches that you buy from anybody, including your Subaru dealer, BECAUSE THEY ARE ALL BAD. They are going to all get up to 130F, or they won't allow your engine to run smoothly, but for certain they will give off noxious fumes that are likely poisonous. You can thank the automobile conspiracy for getting these old Subarus off of the road for that, because this is how far they are willing to go in order to get you to buy a new car from them. It does not matter whether they are made in Japan, in China or in Taiwan, they are all bad and toxic to your health. Therefore, DO NOT CHANGE OUT YOUR RELAY SWITCHES. The relay switch that is most likely to blow is the Fan relay switch. When the Fan is in the number 3 position for more than about a 1/2 hour, then you are in danger of blowing that relay switch. If either of your two relay switches that run the engine cause the engine to no longer run, then swap them out with the other two or four relay switches that you have hidden behind the fuse box. The only relay switches that work properly are the ones that came with the original car. They have stamps on them like 01F17 or 03K15, but not exactly those stamps. GL10's have 6 relay switches. GL's have only 4 relay switches. If you are forced to go to then new toxic ones, then you are going to have to go nuclear and run wires from the relay switch connector by the fuse box, to a location in your car like the back seat floor, and find another actual relay switch connector that you will allow you to encasing your new toxic relay switch inside of a 30 caliber ammo box where the wire openings are caulked tight. Which is not a pretty option.

if it dies when it warms up then i think i know what it is, its your distributor, mine used to do it, it would work perfectly and awesome and 15min later it would just stall and die and never turn back on no matter what i did unless i waited 10-15min for it to cool, then it would start up like nothing happened. it drove me insane but inside your distributor theres a metal disk with alot of holes on it and a sensor that reads these holes, either your disk is dirty or the sensor (little tiny rectangle sensor) is failing when it warms up, im not talking about the rotor, more deeper is a metal disk that spins inside the distributor, thats why theres regular wires coming out of your distributor, took me a while to figure out why a distributor needed power (not the coil, just regular wires) mine failed because i washed the engine and i fried the sensor and it woukd fail on me only after driving for 15ish minutes.. if its not that, good luck. but try to put an ice pack around the distributor and see if your vehicle lasts longer with it on, thats how i found out about my problem.