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Spent a little more time on some further disassembly last night - got the control arms, sway bar, and transmission crossmember out without having to cut anything major - just one little bracket needed chopping to get the parking brake cable off - the bolt was so caked it was practically cemented on. I've also removed the steering rack so I can drop the engine and transmission on without running into the rag joint while I work out that problem. After reviewing some other builds again (there are only so many I've been able to find) I may end up switching tracks and modifying the impreza engine subframe to fit in the Brat for an easier time getting the steering rack clearances I need in order to avoid chopping up the transmission bell housing. For now, however, I'm going to push ahead using the modified Brat subframe so I can keep the impreza actually rollable for a little longer. I need to put together a couple dollies for the husk so I can keep workflow going in my shop during the day, and once i pull the control arms, knuckles, steering, and front suspension components that becomes much much more of a chore. I've got the camber plates sketched up and getting ready to be CNC'd - very excited for that part. I'd like to design an adapter to allow for the install of these coils into the original knuckles while I'm in here for the folks more committed to keeping the 4x140 bolt pattern than I am. In combination with the coilovers & camber plate adapters this may end up being a serviceable way to get new suspension on these old cars.

Tom, here in CT I was able to keep my “totaled due to value,etc.” Legacy but only I can continue to drive it. If I sell the car that next owner has to take it through CT inspection to verify it’s still roadworthy. So that’s another amazing thing they do in our favor. I was amazed. And of course I’m VERY happy since my 94 is the family truck and just keeps rolling and functioning. Tell your friend !

The accident was out of state and my insurance company said that it wouldn't be reportable to Tennessee. So I'm hoping that I don't need a salvage title and all that headache. Car is in southern Michigan right now so that could be a mess.

Sure thing! Brief run-down: My parents bought this car new in 1981, been in the family ever since. It was handed down to my brother and then me, both our first cars. I drove it for a couple years then took it off the road more than 10 years ago for a full bare shell restoration with upgrades. Been back on the road close to 4 years. It's now got a 2" lift kit + 27" tires, touring wagon dash/center console, power steer/air con/power windows, entirely new wiring loom designed and made by me, L series 5 spd, air adjustable rear shocks, 5ch sound system with sat-nav. The list could go on...I'm constantly working at improving and upgrading things. The front suspension will be next as its way too stiff. New gearbox coming soon etc. Here's from a recent camping/fishing trip with the 4WD club It's my daily driver and gets pushed into service for vaious jobs... Right after I got the new 15" wheels

I think that just about covers everything! Only thing left to do was get it dyno tuned. This took 2 different attempts; the first time was plagued by fuel pressure and electrical gremlins. After this I made the hard fuel return line to get more flow back to the tank. Also when I made the new engine loom that goes under the manifold. The 2nd visit was trouble-free and I got a whopping 60kW at the front wheels or 80hp Still this is plenty enough to light up the 27" tires and have the open front diff torque steer the car if I floor it from a stop. The gearing in the 3.7 ratio L series 5 speed is all wrong for 27" tires. I'm waiting on a 3.9 ratio gearbox rebuild which should make it nicer to drive I think. This will be going into an EJ gearbox casing so I can do-away with the adapter plate and use a full EJ flywheel and clutch. This is still in progress. In any case it drives much better now and uses less fuel than the EA81 twin carb. Highway cruising is a breeze, I can stay in 5th gear for most hills. And the absolute best part and one of the reasons I did this whole swap; no more oil leaks on the driveway! Fire away with any questions you might have.

Been a really long time since this thread was updated. Had my share of local trouble with attempted theft and damages. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/186359-beware-of-mevotech-parts/ Decided to go with KYB 2wd struts(new old stock) and Lesjofors '94 Kia Sephia front springs(4044208 on RA), new KYB strut mounts(SM5364, IF you can find 'em). New KYB 4wd rear shocks with better looking, less rusty springs. Rear cross member with gaps in mounts filled with urethane. Superpro front strut rod bushings(SPF2534K). Superpro new moustache bar bushings(same as rear diff mount bushing). Rides much better without all the bounciness on highways. Combination of Sachs 4wd struts with those Lesjofors springs, they're about .040" thicker than stock, will get you another inch of lift in front. Combination of those and 2wd rear KYB shocks + stock rear springs OR 4wd rear shocks with Honda Accord front springs, Lesjofors 4135713, may ride even front to rear. Just a suggestion. KYB 2wd strut, Lesjofors spring, KYB mount, SJR 4" lift. For $86 shipped this McPherson spring compressor was worth it. MUCH safer to work around than those hook compressors that tend to slip and always at the wrong time. spring compressor Be sure to lube the threads and round part with gear oil.