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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/06/25 in all areas

  1. First joined this forum 20 years ago when I had an 84 hatch that I had bought sitting in a field while I was in high school. At the time, I had a 91 Legacy. Drove that till it blew up and then picked up an 83 Brat that I found for sale on here and picked up another 83 for parts. Had a 2000 RS coupe in college, then a 95 Outback beater. Sold the RS and got an 05 STi, sold it in 2016 and got back into an 04 WRX in 2022. Picked up this 84 GL 2 weeks ago as if I needed another project but I am not poor on vehicles - also have a 2019 Tundra and 2015 Rav4. This thing was in surprisingly good shape for being an east TN car. With that, it does have its issues. I have on my work bench a new rear wheel bearing to install, hatch struts, will need a radiator as I see it dripping. I am also trying to nail down why the blower isn't working. I pulled the fan resistor switch last night and it showed continuity but I need to see exactly what ohm values it's supposed to have. Nothing like reading 20+ year old USMB posts. We still like pics on here?
    1 point
  2. Hi yall, been a minute. Glad to see the forum is still up. I'm about to check out an XT6 that was just listed for sale. 1988. Was driven to where it sits, but been sitting for several years. I've got a 94 ej22t wagon that'd I consider swapping the engine from. My question is, can I use the ej22t ecu with the XT6 autobox? I'd like to 5spd swap it. I've got an 89 GL wagon d/r and another d/r 5spd laying around. I'd rather source an ej series 5 speed for parts availability, durability. EJ 5spd should work with the XT6 splines correct? Anyway, I'm either buying the XT6 (dunno how the rust situation underneath is) or there's a non-running ea82 turbo wagon (originally a California car w no rust) a couple hours drive south that I have lined up, with a spare motor. XT6 is pretty darn rare here in western Canada. My buddy had a turbo XT in highschool and it was a blast. Not the best weight distribution. I figure it'd make a pretty fun cruiser or potential drift car with the weight so far upfront. I know in the past some have set the engine further back, cutting the firewall. Anyway, just spitballin another irresponsible car purchase. I'd like to get it running this summer.
    1 point
  3. So I believe I discovered thr original issue of a delay of charging was due to the battery indicator bulb being burned out, so it wasn’t signaling the alternator to start charging upon startup. I’ve replaced the bulb and so far, it is charging within a couple seconds of starting.
    1 point
  4. I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones leaking in less than a year. 25240KA041 genuine Subaru number, MSRP is $24.57. Every dealer has a pile of them (I have 15 at the moment). I used a Subaru switch on my Toyota Celica because I was tired of the aftermarket ones leaking and the Toyota one has an MSRP of $71
    1 point
  5. The majority of clock failures is due to the choice of main power regulator. THE clock circuit runs on 5v. THE 3 most practical ways to get 5v from 12 are switching regulator, pass transistor regulator, zener regulator. These are listed by order , highest to lowest. Cost, efficiency, complexity. They chose the cheapest simplest and least efficient one. SO it has to cook away a watt or 2 of heat. In a small enclosed box. THAT is installed in a closed space, dashboard, where the ambient temperature can get over 140 degrees. The resistor that drops most of the voltage as waste heat gets so hot that it causes the solder on its leads to corrode and the connections fail. A linear pass transistor regulator would have to dissipate roughly half the power that the zener regulator does. Even back then, those were cheap and common. Side note, a switcher was not a financially practical choice back then. There is one other feature of the clock design that can be improved also. BY adding a diode and capacitor to the keep alive power feed, the clock doesn't forget the time when starting the car like it did a few times per year, before I added them. They actually had no filter on that line to smooth over momentary voltage dips.
    1 point
  6. These front windscreen rubbers weigh about 2 kg or smidge more and are quite easily obtained here in Australia from a company that does not really do export. I have sent a few to a dude in the UK a few times, and his first shipping container just landed in UK, ful of them ...no, kidding, he got fifteen though try enter www.ebay.com.au in your address bar, use Brumby windscreen seal see what happens
    1 point
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