edrach

Why are you doing this on the same weekend as an ORG rallycross? Not your fault, but I'm missing an opportunity to have some fun!

Cool, I know I shouldn't decide when you hold your events, but if one of them could be scheduled during the summer so my wife is out of school. Then I could schedule a "get-away" weekend with her while I play in the mud with you guys!

Planning that in the next week. Thanks.

I'm more convinced than ever that something is routing oil into the throttle body when cold. Anyone understand the air intake and PCV system well enough to point me in the right direction?

Thanks very much. Contrary to my normal feelings about cost, I'm less interested in cost and more interested in getting the CDs (maybe I shouldn't say that:eek: ). Plus I know mailing them will cost even more, but that just comes with the territory.

Sweet pics; I wish I could have been there. Maybe next year.

'95 RS! Cool, sounds like the perfect rallycross car. Also, no need to worry about boost (or lack thereof). See you then.

http://www.pacificrallygroup.com/archives/07/results_rc082507.pdf

Looking forward to seeing you again. What's the new ride? Here's mine:

I'll be there. Hoping for the reversible course again so I can double my fun!

Sorry to highjack your thread, but I have a favor to ask while you're there (or if anyone else down under can help). I'm fond of an Australian group (http://www.colcannon.net/); saw them here at the Islands Fold Festival a few years ago and bought every CD they came out with. Except the three that were out of print. I suspect they might be available in used but good condition at local music stores. I'm willing to pay for them if you could pick them up and bring them back. I'm sure I could make it worth your while. The CD's I'm looking for are: Omit the Turnips Honest Work Strength to Strength I believe the band is local to Adelaide. They're currently on tour in Europe and will be going through Canada in November so I'll be able to pick up their latest CD then.

Only issue is you're getting close at idle. Could be as simple as a dirty air cleaner. Don't sweat it since you're now good for two years. Nice to see you "legal" again.

I've been toying with getting a3/4" breaker bar but the cost has kept me away. I'm waiting until I find one at Harbor Freight or Sears has a big sale again. I've broken two 1/2" drives also, but they are Craftsman so the replacement is just a quick ride to Sears and back.

Excellent for a newbie. Looks like you paid attention at the rally school. Way to go!

Impact tool normally works best. 4 foot pipe usually works. Today at Pull a Part I found one that wouldn't come apart. I pulled it with the hub intending to do it at home and return the hub since I didn't need it. It took my neighbor's air impact tool (rated for 600 ft-lbs) over 20 seconds to get the nut off (I had soaked it with rust pentrant before-hand also). Sometimes they are put on with an impact tool. Totally un-necessary; it just makes it harder to get it off next time.

My wife and I were talking about the oil comsumption this afternoon and she brought up a point I hadn't considered. The car was stolen from our driveway early last year and recovered less than a week later when it was abandoned after the thief ran it into a curb and bent the right front wheel enough to make it undriveable. Car was repaired with insurance money at the time for the obvious damage. There's a possibility that the oil consumption started then but I couldn't be sure. Car did not burn oil when we bought it with 121K on it; only 129K on it now. Hard to believe that someone could ruin the engine in less than a week but it's a thought.

Interesting. Car was manufactured in 9/96 but title says 1997. I would prefer it to be non-interference, but that's another issue unimportant to this thread.

I can't believe I left out the mileage. Car just turned 130K.

I'm sorry, but how many times do I have to say it was an original, OEM Subaru PCV? I have to chuckle, I'm old, but not senile yet. Don't take this personally, since I do appreciate the other advice. I hadn't thought about oil sitting in the bottem of the engine to blow out during initial running. Hopefully that's it since I don't want to have rings done this soon (less than 130K on the engine).

As I said, first thing I did was replace PCV with original. Doesn't seem to be leaking oil since there's none on the engine or in the driveway. Thanks anyway for the suggestions.

My wife's Impreza goes through oil pretty rapidly. I usually add 3 to 4 quarts between changes (every 2500 miles). I drove it today for the first time starting the engine from cold and in the daytime. I noticed that the car blew lots of blue smoke out the back for the first five minutes until the engine was warm--especially when I accelerated smartly. After warming up, no more blue smoke. This would explain a lot of things since my wife is the primary driver and home to work is about 5 minutes! I do a lot of my own work, but haven't a clue about what part of the engine this points to: rings (which?), valve guides, egr (none on this car), or some emissions related item that somehow sucks oil into the throttle body. For the purists , this is an EJ22 with the two stud exhaust header (i.e. interference engine:mad: ) and the reason for no egr is that it has been blanked off since we got the car and I believe that is normal. Also, first thing I did when I saw the excessive consumption was to replace the PCV with an original OEM unit. Car runs just fine; no strange noises and lots of pep. No check engine lights since we bought it. Any ideas?

Cookie, thanks for the follow-up and info. I'm sorry that the repair cost so much, but I'm sure you finally found the real cause and eliminated it. I find it so annoying to have someone start a thread like yours and then it dies without explanation so we never learn something from it. Long live the Forester.

Bleed them starting with the wheel furthest from the brake master cylinder, then next furthest, and so on. Finish with the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Watch the level of brake fluid in the reservoir; don't let it get too low since you'll just suck more air into the system and need to bleed more out. Edit: I stand corrected; I'll go with the manual as Hodaka Rider suggested.

Releasing the handbrake should be sufficient; but after re-leasing it you can slip the cable off the lever more easily if you like.

C-clamp doesn't work since the piston is on a threaded shaft. You have to turn AND push at the same time. Sometimes you have to push pretty hard which makes it difficult to turn it at the same time.