edrach

While in second gear, does the vibration go away on trailing throttle and come back when you step on the gas again. If so, this is pretty typical for a bad DOJ on one or both of your axles. Check the boot for tears; if it's torn on one side that could likely be your problem. Too early to really decide whether it's the tranny or not. Even replacing both axles will cost less than replacing the tranny. Good luck.

Run down to NAPA or the equivalent autoparts store and get the small tool that works with a 3/8" drive to turn the piston back into place. Costs und $10US. Also, open the bleeder valve to relieve pressure while turning. That should do it for you. Good luck.

This is a new car for you and it never overheats unless you turn on the heater? Head gaskets don't normally turn their symptoms off with the heater controls on. You've just been through a summer when the heater is not used. If your previous owner had the coolant flushed by an inexperienced shop (without opening the heater) you could very well have air in the coolent which could account for your problems. Take it to a shop you can trust (try rallykeith, he's not too far from you for advice on local service) and have them diagnose the symptom. Is your car an EJ22 or EJ25? EJ22's do not normally have head gasket problems at this mileage. Before you spend a ton of money on head gaskets, make sure that's what your problem really is. Also, check with the previous owner if he still has any of the service records. No point in doing a timing belt if he had it done recently. If he has no record of doing it, definitely schedule a timing belt as soon as you can since you have an interfence engine and breaking a belt will certainly turn your engine to junk. If you find that a head gasket job and everything else included is necessary, investigate the local craigslist; you may find a wreck with an excellent engine that can be swapped over for less than the cost of all the things you are contemplating. Good luck with it and keep us apprised of how you're doing.

That's okay; you're not the first. Sorry, I'm touchy to that topic since I run in "Prepared" which usually just means I have fancy tires. I personally don't think strut bars are significant enough (in cost or performance) to justify the jump from SA to PA, but the rules are the rules.

White one would make a good ad for Hooters!

ditto on the alternator

"Aggressive" tires move you to Prepared class, not all the way to Modified.http://www.scca.com/documents/Rally%20Rules/2007rxRules.pdf

Actual tire size is not the determinant for bumping you out of Stock class. Check what rules your club uses; most clubs use the SCCA rallycross rules. Definition of stock tires can be found there. Studless Blizzack snow tires seem to be the preferred "stock" tire. I'm sure they are available in 16" size and also much less expensive than these. Check the rulebook for what's allowed in Stock class.http://www.scca.com/documents/Rally%20Rules/2007rxRules.pdf

The effect is cumulative. Every revolution of the wheels adds to the difference in circumference, the further you drive the more the front and rear axles will fight each other.

Zap, you've got too much spare time on your hands. Get back to working on your garage!

Great place to have your car serviced. Stop in sometime and introduce yourself.

I'm with you; never saw a used and re-used one go bad. I've heard that if one compresses the unit too quickly, it could result in failure. But I've never heard of it actually happening.

Rebuilding is just as good as new, and costs less. http://www.philbingroup.com/philbin_rebuilt.htm

http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RX_9_9_2007.pdf

That is just unbelievably sad. R.I.P.

I'm planning on being at Hillsboro. Look for my blue Impreza wagon.

GD is right on with both opinions. Backing plates sometimes require huge amount of rust penetrant, a good sledge hammer (only beat on the re-inforced portion), time, and patience to remove. I've never found a backing plate I couldn't get off; but I have spent as much as two hours on the worst case samples. It helps to scrape the built up rust off the hub with a pen knife before trying to remove the backing plate.

Of all the rear disk conversions I've done and pulled, I've never had to replace the rotors. Only once did I have to have them turned. I couldn't find the rotor you were looking at, but worst case is that you would need to have the old rotors turned before installing them. Just for a price point, conversion kits for rear disks normally sell on the USMB for $100 or less plus shipping (that includes all the used parts you'll need). And yes, FWD kits and 4WD kits would be different (the backing plate is the primary difference).

Only difference between the two is the backing plate; otherwise they are the same.

More pics here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9924449@N07/sets/72157601996349257/

My sentiments exactly.

I always use my seatbelts and frankly I've never liked air bags. I've worn glasses all my life and have no desire to have the lenses pushed into my eyeballs. During the initial testing for airbags many years ago some German companies used cadavers to see how they would affect a person. They found the ear drums popped on the cadavers if the windows were fully closed. My personal opinion, once the air bags deploy it adds about $2000 to the cost of the repair which normally sends the bill to the point where the insurance company can "total" the car. Cynic that I am, that was a primary reason for mandating them in the first place.

If I remember correctly, it's in the same place on an EA81. I just looked in my Brat and there you have to remove the small tray that's in front of and under the glove box. On the older wagons I sort of remember a panel under the glove box that you'll need to remove to see it. Skip's picture at the beginning of this thread is accurate once you remove all the stuff in the way.

Try Rich Lawson at Superior Import Repair (richierich on the USMB).

There's another rallyX closer to home for you on Oct. 7th. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm Come to both to carry you through the winter off-season.