edrach

Thanks to 02blur here's a bunch: I just got home and decided to upload some pics from today. I have more videos later. Yah, it was a little dusty And now some videos! http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/silverrs.mov 21MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/Kea.mov 16MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.mov 17MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitevo.mov 12MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/redlegacy.mov 12MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/bluelegacy.mov 6MB http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/silversti.mov 4MB I probably have some of the models wrong, sorry about that. I have a lot more, also, probably be tomorrow. Here are more pics I uploaded Monday (9/10) http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/toyblue.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/redblacksubi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/greensubi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/audi.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitewrx.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/La'Akea1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/bmw.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/rebecca1.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whitevo.jpg http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/whiteevo1.jpg

The vacuum advance question keeps coming up and with Rubild no longer rebuilding distributors, that question will come up too. Here's where to get either: http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/special_services.htm

Just to throw in my two cents. I'm still trying to justify going to the event. I think it would be great fun and if I understand it correctly, it's a two day event (correct me if I'm wrong). My problem is taking a weekend away from my wife to go play (with her car yet! ). Anyway, if I can make it a "get-away" weekend for her at the hotel where she can relax while I play, I'm up for it. It's easier now that PRG has cancelled their September RallyX due to a scheduling snafu. How long a drive is it to Mt. Washington from the Nanaimo Ferry terminal? I looked at the map and it looks like quite a ride.

Looking for pics from the event. I'll post some links soon. Got this last night. http://www.zero2blur.com/rallycross/ed1.mov

Jamie (subiegal) is one of the best instructors at the school; got that from a number of her students in the last few years.

Interesting walk through PAP again. A few more ea82 wagons, but the most interesting find was a 98 Forester! Mostly gone already; no engine, transmission, rear diff, axles, seats, rear window, and instrument cluster. Deep red color, most of the body parts are okay; just the four struts and wheel hubs left. It probably went into the yard Friday either missing all that stuff or someone had a very busy weekend.

The ceramic stuff does help the coils last longer but I suspect it's not because it acts as a heatsink. The ceramic keeps the coils apart so that adjacent loops don't touch, fuse together and then upset the current draw for that loop (or cause a hot spot which causes the coil to go open circuit). The primary cooling for the coils is done by placing the resistor coils in the direct path of the blower helping to disipate the heat generated. Plus the faster the blower turns, the more cooling air is generated. Pretty clever those fellows at Heavy Fuji.

Lots more than 4 running in M4. If they handed out awards 4 deep you can bet that there were more than 10 in class. You'll see when the scores are posted; if I remember correctly it was a pretty large field running yesterday. I spent a long time in the field shagging cones during the early session.

Good time and as you say, not too shabby. Congratulations on your award in class.

Sister7 was there in her RX. I was there in my blue Impreza (#044), cfwdfw was there in his red Legacy GT. GLCraigGT was there in the afternoon taking pics with his new camera. Look us up tomorrow at the rallycross. Yes, I had a great time too. So what was your time?

That's exactly why I don't like to drop the ball joint. I did it this time since I didn't want to screw up the camber (even when I'm very careful, the camber can be upset by taking out the 2 big bolts). I got lucky this time because it came out easily; and more surprisingly went back in just as easily.

I must be leading a charmed life. I had a CVJ boot let go over the weekend and finally had time to replace the axle this evening. By the way, early Legacy ('91) and '97 Impreza take the same axles. Had this confirmed by SIR in Portland, MWE who rebuilt my two axles, and Tom at Aaron's who's sold enough axles to know the difference. I don't understand the discrepancy in the part numbers but they could be different numbers for something inconsequential. It took me 45 minutes start to finish without any "special" tools. Probably because I've done this often enough on all my cars that the parts haven't had the opportunity to rust in place. Needless to say, I used some never-seeze on the splines to make sure I never experience the problem cookie had with his. For a change I took a chance by dropping the ball joint out of the bottem of the strut to minimize the chance of screwing up the alignment. Worked okay for me; better than past experiences with that option.

Finally dawned on me what you meant. At the time I posted that, I didn't have the Michelins mounted on wheels I could use. I have them now and they seem to work okay except I'm concerned with clearance problems; not sure what will rub where when I press the suspension to the limits. I'm not anxious to damage the front fenders and might be a bit too cautious about using them.

Good solution. Only improvement I could suggest is to add a 2nd screwdriver on the left at the 9 o'clock location; with the 1st one at 3 o'clock, just push on the handles to bring the inverted nut toward you.

I think you mentioned earlier that you had a Forester so you should have splines at the wheel/hub end. Lube the splines to make life easier; the fact that you had so much trouble getting the old one out makes me think there was some rust build that's still interfering with this. If you can get the axle far enough through to put the castle nut on for 4 or 5 turns, you can use it for a pinch point and using two large screwdrivers, pry the stub axle out a little at a time. I have 6 large washers that I used to use to put under the axle nut to get me a little further each time until it finally came all the way through. I'm still trying to get my head around the fact that your axle is so difficult to get out and get in again.

Here's an extreme solution to the 13" scarcity! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=79316

Long range for cast has rain on Tuesday. After that sunshine through Sunday. I might need to leave the mudders home (except I don't have anything else).

All right, now I understand more. Tell me are you trying to pull an EA82 hub off or an EJ22 (or EJ18 or EJ25) hub off. Might be different reasons for why it's so hard to remove.

The clutch adjustment tends to tighten up as the clutch disk wears out. Two ways to do it: At the clutch fork adjust for 1/8" to 1/2" of play. At the clutch pedal you should have 1/2" to 1" of play. I usually adjust at the clutch fork and monitor the pedal play and adjust whenever necessary. Someone's previous comment about it needing adjustment more often just after replacing a clutch or cable is correct. Don't let the adjustment go since that will cause the clutch to slip and cost you premature wear of the clutch disk. I don't know why your car should feel sluggish or lack power unless the adjustment is so far out that the clutch is slipping all the time. Better check it now.

I guess this would go under Body Exterior for want of a better place. Anyway, I found a good cleaner to get rid of the brake pad dust that just clings to the alloy rims. It's not found in your auto parts store, but you'll find it at most supermarkets. It's called Zap Professional Tub and Tile cleaner (or any variation of that). Spray it on your wheels and let it sit for about 10 minutes, then hose it off. Really stubborn stuff you might have to wipe off with a wet cloth, but I just cleaned a really ugly set of alloy rims in less than 30 minutes with most of that time spent letting it soak in.

Yea, the list is kind of vague with that FWD mention, but it looks like I can't use my spare Legacy rebuild for the Impreza.

Some people hammer them on with an impact tool as well as a thread locker. 200 ft. lbs is okay, but more than that is just un-necessary. Good luck getting it off. I have broken a couple of 1/2" breaker bars that way (luckily they were Craftsman and a free replacement). One of these days I might consider a 3/4" breaker bar.

Thanks for the link to the site you mentioned. Funny, every site I have and used lists the axles in question along with a price, BUT NO PART NUMBERS!

Correct there is no maximum. Castle nut is 36mm and not 34. Anyway, I never bother with the torque wrench for that one; as tight as I can make it works for me.

Is the vibration on acceleration and then goes away when you let off on the gas and coast? Chronic symptom for a bad inner (DOJ) joint on the axle. CVJ doesn't vibrate, it clicks when it's bad. This is the unfortunate case with re-mans. I've had better luck with "selected" used axles from Pull a Part; price is better and at least I can return it within 30 days if it's a POS. I've bought re-mans from cvaxles.com and had good success with them; recently I bought two from MWE in Colorado and the first one is just fine (second one is waiting for the other PAP boot to let go). Only problem I have with the PAP axles is the boots don't last as long as I'd like and make the low cost of the axle less attractive.