edrach

Amen.

OBDI was not standardized for all makes and models; so your Subaru needs a Select Monitor to pull the codes off easily (or go through the count the flashing lights routine). Your dealer and some independant shops will have the Select Monitor. Both systems just record glitches in the system and if there are enough glitches turn on your Check Engine Light. The glitches are recorded to aid in diagnosing a problem.

There is no idle adjustment! Done entirely with the ECU. Usually, cleaning the IAC will fix your idle problem. By the way, don't muck with what looks like an idle adjust screw. It will only make the problem worse.

Too bad I couldn't print out the form for convenience. http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/trannychart/trannychart.pdf To identify your transmission look for a label on the bell housing near the starter motor. My '97 Impreza has one reading 6Y-TY752VA5AA. I don't know what the 6Y means, but the TY etc. is what's important to identify your gearbox.

Wasn't sure where to put this but it is Subaru related so it's not going into Off Topic. http://jalopnik.com/cars/'''and-then-you-touch-down/its-the-ken-block-monster-air-272576.php :eek: :eek: :eek: I think he went further than the first Wright Brothers' flight. (Might be old news, but I'm a bit slow on the uptake)

Great news: Safe Drives (www.safedrives.com), an automotive safety product retailer officially announced today that the company will appear as an official vendor and sponsor at the popular West Coast Subaru Show 9 (http://westcoastsubarushow.com/). Also in attendance will be the Safe Drives Rally Team (SDRT) which is currently sponsored by Safe Drives, Certified Safety Manufacturing and Performance Race Engineering in Portland Oregon. SDRT has had a successful 2007 Rally America North West Regional Rally season thus far taking no less than 4 wins in the G5 class. This performance has given the team a commanding lead in the points chase for the Championship. Team Driver and Safe Drives Founder Charles Buren will be available for autographs as well as to answer any auto safety related questions during the show on Saturday. SDRT is sponsored by: Safe Drives (safedrives.com) Performance Race Engineering (preracing.com) Certified Safety Mfg. (certifiedsafety.com) For information on Rally America, check rally-america.com Season Point standing are found here http://rally-america.com/champ_stand...lass=4&Champ=4

It is usually quite cool in the early runs at the ORV park. See you there.

The red GT with the #27 on the side is either me or cdwdfw. He was kind enough to offer me a ride since I'm not sure what's going on with my Impreza's gearbox. I can tell which are me from the photos; on the skidpad portion, I was usually inside on the grass and he was further out on the dirt portion. It didn't do me much good since he was usually a second faster than I was. But it was great fun. A really good course with the gates wide enough that you could choose the proper line as opposed to the course choosing it for you. A real thrill.

OBDII should be available in the '96 model year. My '97 has OBDII and an EJ22. Most early imprezas are EJ18 up to and including '95 I believe; my son has a '96 Impreza with original EJ22 engine. I have heard of one '96 Impreza with EJ18 engine. EGR is capped off in my '97 Impreza. Not sure, but '95 and earlier Imprezas should be OBDI.

More pics here: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?page=3&folder=200706RX

You guys are all pikers. Here's the scoop. http://www.wunderground.com/US/WA/McCleary.html You'll have to wait until tomorrow to see the weather forecast for Sunday. Just noticed, Saturday will have a full moon! I hope it's clear.

EJ18 is just a fun engine. Don't go overboard on tires. I believe 14" tires are standard and with 14's the car has quite a bit of pick-up. With 15" or 16" wheels/tires, the car is a stone. Only difference between the EJ18 and EJ22 is that you'll have to shift down from 5th on longer, steeper hills. All in all my '94 was more fun to drive than my wife's '97 with the EJ22 engine. Also, the EJ18 gets MUCH better gas mileage. I'm glad you're getting this car as a project. I think you'll be pleased. Best of luck with it.

Results are up; great job ORG! http://www.oregonrally.com/files/RX_6_24_2007_Results.pdf

Nice pics; I'm sure there will be more. Morning: http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4568 Afternoon: http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4569 Travis' favorites: http://shutterdriven.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=4570

I'm embarassed to admit this but I installed the 75W-90NS Redline in my '91 Legacy wagon at 93K miles when I bought the car about 5 years ago. This past weekend, I had it replaced while having other work done on the car (new GR2's all around:banana: ). Anyway, the mechanic pointed out to me that gear oil should be changed every 30K miles. I currently have 192K miles on the car. Gearbox works just fine and is missing the 2nd gear synchro crunch it had when I bought it.

I own a '91 Legacy wagon as a daily driver and it is pretty much bullet-proof compared to my '86 GL wagon. Axles are much easier to replace and general repair work is easier in almost all cases when compared to the GL/Loyale series. Handling and power are both vastly improved also. Mine is a 5 speed manual AWD transmission; I wouldn't give you a nickel for the automatics. For every 10 early Legacies I see at the local Pull a Part yard, 9 are automatics (might be that there are more automatics to start with).

For those of us going, bring your mud tires and rain gear. Looks like the field will be wet today. http://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/getForecast?query=hillsboro%2C+OR

I'd still check out the distributor. Check for wobble in the main shaft where the rotor is and make sure all the wiring to the distributor is well connected (along with the coil). Don't ignore the easy stuff before you get into the more "esoteric" reasons for this symptom.

DOJ failure is mild to severe vibration during acceleration; vibration disappears instantly as you let off the gas. I have had it so bad that it felt like the transmission was about to fall out. Also, so slight that an experienced mechanic didn't feel it was problem. In both cases, replacing the axle eliminated the vibration. A torn boot is almost always an indication of a bad joint. I've never found it economical to just replace the boot. For $20 I can get a good used, inspected (by me) axle at Pull a Part. I apparently have a good eye since I've installed over a dozen on various cars we've owned and they last almost as long as many rebuilt units I've bought.

Just a thought, the AT radiator is rated to dissipate more, but I suspect that difference is to cool the automatic transmission fluid and not the engine. I have had great success with the single row but for your area and conditions the extra cash for a two row is likely well worth the peace of mind.

Pretty much the same for the location; resistors block are the same for EA81 and EA82.

A little late, but this should have come up in your search since I've posted it here before. Still works for me. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I do have some of those terminals at work, but not enough. And yes, they are impossible to get even for the professional. When we tried to order them, it was 10,000 piece minimum quantity! Replacing the entire plug is fairly simple and practical. The other alternative is to hit up radio shack and buy a few of the insulated quick disconnect terminals in the proper size and splice around only the faulty terminal. In any event, the faulty terminal needs to be replaced sooner or later before it causes definite problems.

We should be there; planning to leave here by 6am. It started raining here around 9pm; bring the mudders.

Removal is easy; but your suggestion would help greatly in the replacement. Easiest way to remove: 1/ Dis-able ignition by unplugging most sensible item 2/ Put 22mm socket and breaker bar of suitible length and rotate by hand clockwise until the bar hits the fender well on the driver's side. 3/ Turn ignition to use starter motor to rotate engine momentarily. Just a short jolt is all that's needed.