edrach

Regarding the read disk upgrade: rear disks from an early ('92 or '93) Legacy will fit. Slightly newer should fit too. When I first ordered replacement pads based on the year and model of the Legacy that I had pulled the donor brakes off, I found they didn't fit; turns out I had installed brakes from a '95 Legacy (someone had upgraded the brakes on the donor car before I got to it) Take everything including the handbrake cable. The cable will be slightly longer than the original, but there's plenty of room to install it. I forgot why, but your original brake cable won't work with the legacy rear disks. Rear disk brake upgrade is a worthwhile one. Just for your information, my Impreza wagon is a '97 model L. I'm pretty sure my endlinks are the c-shaped version.

I don't know about the end links, but I can send you a photo of mine if you like. I replaced my 12mm rear sway bar with a 21mm (I think that's the measurement) from a WRX. Got it for free since the previous owner of the swaybar was upgrading to an aftermarket version. I think I even got the endlinks with it for free. It was a considerable improvement and it's been on the car now for more than 6 years worth of daily driving and rallycross. And the previous poster is correct, the legacy bar won't fit.

No, your rear axles need stubs on the rear diff to fit; the WRX doesn't. Is it a VLSD or true LSD diff? Also, I think you need a 3.900 ratio and the WRX is usually a 4.111. Price is very good if it's a true LSD; you could use the clutch pack in the diff and install it in your current open diff.

I think that the linkages and such are interchangeable between the Imp and Lego (most years). But worst case for you, use the linkage from your Imp and move it to the Lego transmission when you do the swap. I've done four swaps and the only one that presented any difficulty(that I remember) was the JDM swap since we had to convert from the hydraulic to cable clutch mechanism.

No, not something I'm aware of.

The JDM gearbox in my Imp is definitely and upgrade: a close ratio box with a 4.111 diff; more importantly from a WRX which hopefully means it can handle more horsepower (not that my Imp motor is modified for more HP). I was looking for the first two items and the stronger box might mean more reliability.

Give it time; I've had a p0440 cel on my '97 Impreza that's been with me for over two years. I've replaced most everything except the metal inlet pipe which is the next item on my list. The code doesn't seem to harm the engine or the driveability. When I finally get a fix, I'll post what did it for me.

The release lever needs to change along with the position of the pivot ball; the hole for the other postion is in the casting, but might need to be tapped to thread in properly. I currently have a JDM transmission for a '95 WRX currently in my '97 US version Impreza that was converted over from hydraulic to cable. Close ratio gearbox along with a 4.111 ratio. Over the life of my '97 Imp I'm on my 4th gearbox. Not that the gearboxes are that unreliable, but rallycross events take a toll on 1st and 2nd gear and ALL my replacements were junkyard pulls with greater than 120K miles on them when I pulled them. The last one was a JDM box with only 47K on it and it's still going strong after 75K since I installed it. My Impreza currently is at 230K.

2nd 3rd and 4th are "tighter" so you shift sooner (i.e. at lower speeds). 5th is the same so you'll be at the same rpm for highway cruising. Taller inner gears will result in slightly less pickup but I doubt you'll notice it. More important to you is to match the front and rear differential....Much more important than matching the inner gear ratios.

Only real critical issue is the differential ratio: 3.900 or 4.111; they have to match with the rear diff. Check the TY number in the usmb repair manual against Impreza and Legacy models from '90 (for the legacy) up to '98 for both models. Also, must be a cable clutch (I think for your Impreza) and note whether it's a "pull" clutch or "push" clutch. If I understand it correctly all cable clutches are pull versions and push clutches are hydraulic. If you can't match the rear end ratio, pull the correct rear from the donor car to insure a match with the front diff. On another note, cable to hydraulic or vice versa can be changed, but that's another question you only need to get an answer for if you are stuck with it.

Rather than using WD40, go to any auto parts store and try a can of the so called belt dressing. I've found that to work well for squealing issues when I know the belt is properly tensioned. Another possibility might be the belt itself. I use either OEM belts or belts manufactured by Gates. Never needed to use belt dressing when using these belts.

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When you find the solution, let us know. I'm fighting with this myself.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=131521

Your friends are full of it. Large bore cars (much bigger than our EA81, 82, EJ18, 22, and 25) with sticks like to run at low rpm; our cars like to "breathe" and shifting at 3000 to 3500 is pretty normal. Plus you won't hurt the engine if you let it run up to 6000 rpm now and then. Running at low rpm (below 2000) can actually hurt our car's engines.

Well, I didn't make it out this weekend. I don't want to stop anyone else helping out the original poster.

Pretty rust free for an east coast Brat. Good find. Lots of luck with it.

I was going to grab it and send it off to the OP; but I don't have any dibs on it.

I know the difference between you and Paul (moosens). Just was confused about whether you needed that clip also.

Looking good. Lots of potential there, best of luck with it.

Now I'm confused; first time you jumped into this thread. Am I missing something here?

Thanks. Hopefully the rain lets up enough to pick that up. Not likely someone will go after the clip in question.

Why avoid mudfests, they are fun!!!!! http://www.youtube.com/pdxrallynw#p/u/6/TbnYDCxWO4I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIBfdn9A6pw&feature=relmfu

I'll try to remember to look for that clip next time I'm at Pick N Pull. If the rains would stop I'll go this weekend. I know they have at least one early wagon there; hopefully it's a manual transmission.

This is what pull a part is for....those small pieces that no one carries and that are overpriced at the dealer's. As to removing the clip, I use a small long nosed vise grip and grab the straight tab on the end and tap the vise grip with a small hammer for the difficult ones. Easy ones I do with a long nose pair of pliers.