edrach

A thought that could only come from a person living in a state half the size of the lower 48 (or thereabouts).

Unless, someone swapped the engine, it should be hydraulic lifters and do not need adjustment. There should be a label to that effect on the valve covers. Also, the non-hydraulic valve covers are rectangular in shape whereas the hydraulic ones have the rear edge slanted at about a 40 degree angle.

Tailgate and bed trim. Not for me, but those items are in demand.

Sorry about your loss. Looks like Subaru is catching up with Honda as the most stolen. I'll keep a look out also; I do a fair amount of daytime driving around the area.

Sounds like the control arm and swaybar if I read your post correctly. I'd feel better if I had a drawing or pic of what you mean by control arm. I'll take a look at it the next time I'm up there (next day or so); after that shipping becomes an issue. I'm also assuming you want the parts off the 4WD version. I'll drop you a PM when I've had time to look at it.

Grey with checkerboard inserts. EDIT: Seat delivered last night.

Way too much grease on it for me to check the ratio; however, it is NOT an LSD.

5 lug swap parts would be difficult since one of the rear rotor/hubs on the 4WD version is already gone. I'm not sure what's needed for the complete swap.

Two XT6s just in yesterday. One 2WD and the other 4WD; both automatics. Alternators already gone (I got one:banana: ). Both have fine looking front seats; one has exceptional condition front seats. There is still one complete set of alloy wheels between the two cars. EDIT: Front seat taken out of the grey one for Turbone.

I'll be there.

5 to 7 pm at wongleflute's Drive-in on Holman Rd. on April 1st (better not be one of those April Fool posts:eek: ); I'll be there if I don't forget.

The Hakki 10 was discontinued 6 years ago. I wish the hadn't been since they would make a pretty decent rallycross tire. Craig's link to the Nokian website will get you a dealer list locally. Go with the full studless winter tire; you won't be sorry. I have a set of them on my Legacy; I haven't seen much snow this year, but they are also quite good in the rain.

Some photos in my photo gallery: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=10451&cat=828&size=medium The mud on the Brat came from the rallyX school on Saturday which was quite muddy. The Sunday rallyX was quite nice without any rain for my afternoon run.

If push comes to shove and it likely will, have them find you a replacement vehicle in similar condition....not likely they can. Assuming the frame isn't bent it should be repairable for the amount that they are offering you. Good luck with it.

First event was last weekend and if you missed it you missed a great one. Here's the schedule again and the next event is planned for May 7th; location to be announced.

http://www.pnw-foto.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=HilsboroRally-X2006

http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200603_rallyX

Just to report that I had the pleasure of attending Paul Eklund's rallycross school in Hillsboro, OR and the rallycross after the school. School consisted of a Friday evening discussion of vehicle handling. Saturday was lots of seat-time with individual instructors practicing skidpad runs, figure 8's, multiple turns, and slalom. There was also a competitive TSD event in the middle of the day to allow for a lunch break. Saturday was rainy most of the day and the 37 students managed to churn up the field pretty well. I was the lone Brat entry in field of WRXs, Imprezas, and some full-blown rally cars. Muddy conditions have always been hard for me, but Saturday's session gave me lots of "seat-time" and I started to get the hang of it. A short rallycross at the end of the day was used to see how much people learned. In spite of the conditions and on and off rain, it looked like everyone had a great time (especially me). Sunday brought out a phenomenal turnout of cars for the rallycross event as well as a change in the weather. Laying out a course on the churned up field proved difficult, but Paul Eklund managed to get a course set up on the grass that was a bit short but still quite challenging and pretty quick for the conditions. On and off sunshine helped dry out the field somewhat and the afternoon saw the modified classes post some pretty fast times. I was pretty happy with my times since I saw some pretty good improvement relative to others I was running with in the past. ORG managed a fine event with a record 140 entries; well run, and on-time, and a ton of fun. I'm looking forward to the next event in April. Results to be posted as soon as they are available.

Glad you're up and running again. Great job getting back on the "air" so quickly.

Loosen the big nut by one turn first but don't remove it yet. Then knock out the roll pin at the transmission end (Sears Craftsman #42885 WF works perfectly). Note the hole has a beveled side and a non-beveled side; knock it out from the non-beveled side and when re-placing it insert the pin from the beveled side. If your new axle comes with a new roll pin, use it; if not, I've always re-used the same pin without any problems. Also remember which way it was for installing the new axle; if the axle is rotated 180 degrees (i.e. non-beveled hole to beveled hole), you'll be 1/2 spline non-aligned and won't be able to get the roll pin back in. You'll have to see what else on the suspension you'll need to loosen/remove the inner joint (I can't picture it enough for this), but pull the axle away from the transmission and remove the inner joint first from the stub axle on the transmission. Then remove the big nut and push the axle shaft out of the wheel hub. Re-assemble in the reverse order. Replace the locking nut with a new one and tighted to 145 ft-lbs of torque (or more) and peen over the locking tab. This is much easier than on the older GL series. Good luck with it.

Did you grab the LSD on the trashed one?

Closest Board members I know of are in Spokane or near Yakima. Hopefully, someone else closer is available. Good luck.

Assuming the intake and exhaust manifolds match, I would likely just keep the old intake manifold with the wiring harness and switch it over to the newer engine. That avoids the wiring pitfalls.

Flo might have the right idea; if you drop by my house I can show you the difference in the two senders. Or if I get to it I can photo the two senders so you know which one you have. If you have the one for the guage, swapping dashes will be less costly.

No, this was the result of a double home invasion. It started around the corner from my house about a half mile away around midnight last weekend. Two guys, armed with rifles, went to a house there and tried to rob the renter who lived there. The thieves roused a local dog and his owner went out to see what was going on which caused one of the robbers to flee leaving his buddy behind. My neighbor retreated and called 911. The first robber then broke into another house and forced the owners to give him the keys to their Impreza at gunpoint. He then came back to pick up his buddy and they both go away. By the time the police arrived, they were both gone. Oddly enough, Channel 5 broadcast some mini-mart photos of these two guys so they were apparently involved in another incident earlier. So far they haven't been caught. I don't think they were targeting the subaru owner; I'm familiar with the car having driven by it frequently. The owners keep it parked on a slab in front of their house and it was likely the first car this guy saw out in the open and he decided this was the one for some reason. Who knows what prompted this although I suspect they had a reason for targeting the first home.