edrach

RECOVERED! Update: Car was recovered on 3/17 undamaged in Seattle. Police are looking for the thieves since the car was stolen at gunpoint in a home invasion robbery. It got a fair amount of time on last evening's 11 o'clock news. It might be repeated on the Saturday morning news; locals might catch it on Channel 5.

I saw your other post and GD's reply; good advice. If you're going to PAP you might pick up the oil pump along with the sender off a GL (there's a blue '84 wagon with 127K on the odometer) which would be a good donor car and then buy an after market guage. Actually, you might consider a GL dash; if I remember correctly all the wiring is there for you. Call me, I might have the right dash for you.

Check the wire going to the oil pressure sender; if it's shorted to ground the light would be on. If not, the sender is likely bad; pick one up at the local PAP and replace it. I don't like idiot lights for oil pressure either; replace sender with aftermarket guage and sender.

Your oil pressure sensor is really a switch since the DL doesn't have a oil pressure guage. There's couple of early EA81's at Lynnwood PAP and there should be a pressure sender there. How did you drive it home with a missing sender? PUGs show up at PAP about once a month; if you hit the yard at the right time you can score a set for pretty cheap. 176K is just about broken in; it should have lots of miles left. It's almost old enough to be exempt from emissions testing.

I've pulled some acceptable headlamp assemblies when I have the chance for the '90--'91 models. $35 plus shipping from Bothell if you can't polish them to your satisfaction.

Jeeez, I just love it when you talk dirty!

RX models, I think all years; optional on GL-10 turbo models (mostly '89). Some early model Legacies had a 3.900 VLSD. I don't know of any others. Label on diff is very clear: LSD 3.700. If the label is gone and the car is off the ground, turn the wheel; if the other wheel turns in the same direction it's either a LSD or welded diff; if it turns in the opposite direction it's an open diff.

A number of us in the Northwest rallyX.

I've sold a set of the four lug motion rims with caps for $100 plus shipping in the past. I would expect the XT6 rims to go for a slight bit more since they are less available.

Yea, I forgot to mention the bit about the windshield. If it has to stay in, a good right angle screw driver is a must.

That's where they are in my '91 Legacy.

That's a good time to do that also; I have a pulled heater box, complete, if you're looking for one. I won't tell you how long it took me to get it out. Make me an offer I can't refuse.

You don't mention it, but I think your '98 is AWD. Replacing two tires looks odd. It's very important for all four tires to be the same size on an AWD car; if you have two new tires and two slightly worn tires you are asking for an expensive repair. It could also be contributing to the "sway."

I don't remember, but I think it's a plug-in; just swap it in and all the wiring is there. Terrific job though; Turbone helped me with a GL to GL dash replacement on my '84 Brat a while ago. It took us all of 10 hours. It just requires patience and time.

That's the one; everyone forgets about that one. I had one once that had been on the car for ten years (manufacture date had been stamped on it). Car ran like crap whenever I stepped on it. Easy fix (and cheap too); hope it does the trick for you.

Have you checked the fuel filter at the fuel pump?

This is not a member of the Board as far as I know, but we had a home invasion robbery in our neighborhood (not us) this past weekend and in the process, the burgler made off with a 1999 Subaru Impreza, license plate 518URY. As soon as the Seattle Times transfers today's news to their archives, I'll post the link. If you spot the car, call 911 and report it. Update: Car was recovered on 3/17 undamaged in Seattle. Police are looking for the thieves since the car was stolen at gunpoint in a home invasion robbery. It got a fair amount of time on last evening's 11 o'clock news.

Stevecd has the right idea on the brakes. Also, on the idle. I've had a similar problem with high idle on my '91. There is no idle adjustment...all done by the ECU. However, it's possible that the throttle plate is not closing properly. I resolved a high idle problem with a can of seafoam in a full tank of gas. It's not a immediate fix but by the time I had to refill the tank, the idle was down to normal. The tick is likely a stuck lifter; if the car has been sitting for a long time, it's not uncommon. An oil change and daily use might resolve that. If not, there are other approaches.

It sounds just like a clogged catalytic converter.

Update as to the run order for 3/26 event: The classes, as of now, are set up as follows: AM session: SF, SR, SA, PF, PR PM session: PA, M2, M4 These are subject to change at the next rallycross. The run order won't be decided until time gets closer, or even the day of the rallycross. I am hopefully going to be setting up on Saturday after the school. I will be at the school all day on Saturday, helping Paul out. I may end up becoming one of the FWD instructors, but I'll probably work the TSD and shag cones instead. Thanks! April

From the SCCA website, a schedule of events for March: http://www.scca.org/Rally/RallyCross.asp?IdS=00308D-8AEA660&x=040|020&~=

Here's a link from the ORG website summarizing the class structure as per SCCA regulations: http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross_car_classification_summary.cfm

I've done three weber conversions in my time and all without a regulator. They all run fine.

Great buy! Best of luck with it.

Putting the "o"s 120 degrees apart only have to do with enhancing the balance of the flywheel/clutch; has nothing to do with disengaging all the way. How much play do you have at the clutch fork?