edrach

I see people asking for help changing axles on the EA series models all the time. I remember having a write up on this on the old ezboard; unfortunately I didn't keep a hard copy for myself. Any chance someone else has it cached somewhere and can re-submit it. I can add pics to it the next time I do an axle on my brat.

Steering pump is a good possibility; mine makes noise when it's cold so I'll be replacing it soon. Glad to hear the cv boots are okay.

It's a bit of a ride for you, but the best independent shop in the area is Smart Service (http://www.smart-service.com/). A little late now, but an inspection of your new purchase runs about $100 and they'll give you an honest evaluation of what you need to have done. I would guess that your clacking noise is a bad cv joint on the front axle. Check the rubber boots on the outside ends of your two front axles and if you find grease all over one of them, it's the axle. Finding parts for your car at the wrecking yards will be tough since it's so new, but Aaron's in West Seattle is your best bet for newer Subes. Other than that you might luck out with the two Pull a Part yards; one in Tacoma (just off SR512, Steele St. exit) and the other in Lynnwood on Hwy. 99 just north of 188th St.

We (I) have a rear-ender curse. I've been rear ended twice in the Legacy and once in the Brat. Also, my son was rear-ended recently in his Brat; sadly, his may be a total.

Which engine? Just as a start, squirt a small amount of oil into each cylinder and try to turn the engine over by hand by cranking on the crank pulley. If it turns over then and still doesn't turn over, there might be a problem related to the starter.

Pleasant evening last night with snowman and a few Board members coming by. I'll let snowman tell you about it when he gets home. He left for B'ham later this morning and hopes to be on the Alaska ferry to Haines by this evening. Three day ferry ride so it'll be a while before he gets to post.

Watched the 6pm local news today and found out that the fatality accident on I-5 near Maytown involved a late model WRX. Sad to see; I hope it's not someone we know; that would be even sadder.

It worked just fine, thank you. Sorry for the original typo.....just a matter of the brain outpacing the body!

This is the way to go; I probably scored the last distributor delivered by roo-builders (sad, I think Kevin was an okay guy; hard to see a guy lose his business). When I installed it, I also put the original, working distributor in my "stash" box along with parts and internals for another 4 or 5; with three brats in the family, you can never have enough spare parts for a 22 year old car!

What? No emoticon for a sawzall!

jf1gc2540ph512940; thanks if you have one. email to edach@spamcop.net

http://www.philbingroup.com/fhhistory.htm If they don't have one in stock, send them a junkyard one and have them rebuild it for you.

Officially, it's 145 ft-lbs; but the tighter the better.

I figured as much. I'll pass your wishes on to him.

Actually anytime you like; snowman has arreived. :banana:

Just heard from snowman by 'phone. He's in South Bend, WA and will be heading for the Kingston/Edmonds ferry and then slightly south to our house in Bothell. Let me know if you can make it and feel free to stop by after dinner and say hello.

Timing belts are cheaper to manufacture than gears.

I haven't heard from snowman yet, but if anyone else wants to stop by thursday night and say hello, feel free to call and see if he's here.

If it's broken below the surface, put a nut or a few washers of the correct size to center your drill bit and drill a starter hole. Then you can go to a larger size and use an easy out to remove it. Use lots of PB Blaster and let it soak for a while first. If that doesn't work, a welding torch will probably break the rust enough to remove it with the easy out. Good luck with it.If necessary, I'm sure someone on the Board can pull the entire assembly off an '84 wagon or '87 hatch (should be the same) and send it to you.

Interchangeable as far as I know; just the cap and rotor are different.

Backing plate, rotor, hub, caliper, pads, hardware and brakelines. Note that backing plate and hub are different for 2WD and 4WD cars. I think baccaruda has a set for sale in the FS forum.

Kelly, I hope you have your rain gear. Weather report for Wed. and Thurs. is for lots of rain.....and cold. I'll have to look at a map to see how you're coming. If you're taking the Pt. Townsend ferry to Keystone, you'll wind up on Whidbey Island. Head north from there and you'll eventually wind up just north of Mt. Vernon and continue north on I-5 to get to Bellingham. If instead you head south from Keystone you can take the Clinton/Mukilteo ferry and take a small detour south to Bothell. If you're coming through late after noon, you're invited for supper and if you don't mind sleeping in our RV, you're welcome to stay the night. An alternate route is to take route 104 just south of Pt. Townsend and head for the Kingston/Edmonds ferry and you'll be a tad closer to Bothell. You've got my 'phone number; we won't be insulted if you bypass Bothell and just head up to B'ham. Safe riding.

I might be a little out of the way in Bothell (just a couple minutes off Exit 26 of I-405) but feel free to stop by if you like. I'm pretty sure I have a resistor block for you in my "stash." PM me if you can stop by and I'll drop and address and 'phone number on you.

This might be of interest to some of us; I don't know much else about it, but I'm sure someone on the Board would know.

Glad to hear you got it up and running; sorry but I didn't know anything about the older cars.