edrach

Starting to have trouble with the automatic retractors on the shoulder harness of my Legacy. Is the chatter, jamming due to problems in the track or something slipping in the drive mechanism? I really don't like the auto belt arrangement. Has anyone found a suitable replacement that doesn't look bad?

Sorry, rollbar is not for sale yet.

Try B&B, Autozone, NAPA, and Action Auto. As to who has them in stock, the yellow pages and telephone are your friend.

Soak with rust penetrant twice (or thrice or more) a day for a couple of days. Get up behind the fender well and soak the bolts from the rear. It'll be much easier then with a breaker bar or air tools. If it still won't go, soak it some more. Last choice get some heat on the bolts if all the above doesn't work. Patience is the key; if you break a bolt off, you're really in a world of hurt.

Mary, Your car has nothing to do with it; believe me it's just co-incidence and if you didn't have three of them you'd likely not even notice it. These are the super bright mercury vapor lights and when they get too hot, they turn themselves off, cool down and then turn on again. We have one of these at the end of the street I turn onto to leave here and it turns itself off at least 50% of the time that I pull up to the intersection. It is creepy though.

These lights come with H4 bulbs and they reverse the wiring on the hi/lo filaments. You need to re-wire the socket to reflect the wiring for the new lamps. Go back to the company you bought them from and as for corrected wiring so you can install them properly. I ran into this before on an old wagon but don't remember how I re-wired them. Good luck.

What about California's emissions nazis? My understanding is that if the part wasn't stock with the car when manufactured, it wouldn't pass.

Schuck's, B&B, and Napa all have the tool to engage the caliper and make it easier to screw them back into the caliper. I agree with Skip in that it helps to relieve the pressure by releasing the bleeder when you turn them in.

Kevin is correct on the interference engines starting with the '97 model year (could be manufactured in late '96 and be considered a '97). My wife loves her '97 Impreza wagon and I enjoy driving it more than my Legacy wagon. Hers is a 5 speed (we don't think much of automatics....personal opinion there). Handling of the AWD Impreza is vastly superior to the Loyale. I know the 2.2L engine has superior power; 'don't know how the 1.8 compares. Car is also much easier to service for certain things (axle swap for instance and timing belt is also much easier). I don't think you can go wrong.

What's the mileage? If it's the 2nd time the belt is getting replaced, I think the water pump would be a good idea. If you have a really stong vise, you can collapse and re-use the belt tensioner. If you have black seals, replace with the tan ones; if you have tan seals, they should out-live the car from what our resident Subaru guru tells me.

One of the nice things about Bow Wow is they sell weber adapters and linkage adapters and such at much lower prices than the usual weber outlets. Unfortunately they are not a national chain.

I don't have to swear at it; I have a large sledge hammer and impact tool to "persuade" the ornery ones.

Milky coolent....bad head gasket mojo. Clicking CV joints....bad axle mojo. Rust.....super bad mojo; there's an old saying: "Rust never sleeps." Unless you're a home mechanic with good abilities in bodywork, walk away from this one. There are still lots of nice Subarus around at good prices. Even if this one were free, I don't think I'd go for it.

Here's the link to my weber installs: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showgallery.php?cat=812 The new software has thrown me for a loop. There should be 7 weber photos in my Weber album; labelled DGAV1, DGAV2, DGAV3, DFAV1, DFAV2, DFAV3, and DFAV4. Somehow the tail-gate photos that I had previously uploaded into my Stuff for Sale album have shown up here also and the labels have disappeared and all the photos are Weber Installations or some such. Basically, the DGAV carb has the linkage on the passenger side and the DFAV has the linkage on the driver side. The fuel lines also are reversed. I used the stock Hitachi linkage on the DGAV and I have a hokey throttle return set-up (don't laugh, it looks hokey but it works just fine). The DFAV has the $10 throttle return linkage I bought at Bow Wow which I really like and has a nicer return linkage than my setup. I actually like the DFAV better even though it's a 28/36 since it doesn't interfere with the distributor wiring as much as the DGAV. Both webers work just fine (thanks to Cameron in Oz who rebuilt them both for me a long time ago); you might find his fine post on plumbing and adjustment if you search for it---I sure hope it isn't lost in all our transitions. If there's something not clear that I could take a better picture of drop me a PM with your need and I'll try to get a better shot for you.

The 28/36 might save you some gas since the 36 secondary normally doesn't open until you hit 3500 rpm. After that, I don't think your car, or you, will notice the difference.

DFAV is a mirror image of the DGAV; when mounted the throttle linkage is on the driver's side instead of passenger side. I have installed one of each in my Brat and my son's Brat and I actually like the DFAV better since it doesn't seem to interfere with the distributor cap as much as the DGAV. I'll take some pics of both when I can and post them.

I've got to say that the Bothell police may have more time to investigate a car theft. I watched their investigations officer spend an hour on my car dusting for prints and collecting possible evidence when my wife's Impreza was recovered. But then again, Bothell only has about a dozen car thefts a day; also, ours was obviously not a joy-rider......the bolt cutters found in the back seat were likely used in a burglary in our neighborhood two weeks earlier.

And from the sounds of it with less apparent damage. Good to hear Matt. My oldest son gave my wife a burgler alarm with installation from Magnolia; I used to poo-poo that but it's nice to have; also when we park our cars in the driveway, I try to let my wife park me in. On the other hand, who'd steal a box stock non-turbo '91 Legacy? I'm really more worried about my Brats. Which reminds me, I've GOT to clear out the garage and park at least one of them inside.

Unless your later car is different than my '91 EJ22, there are two temp sensors on the motor. One feeds temp information to the ECU and I suspect turns on the fan when necessary; the 2nd one feeds your temperature guage to display coolent temp.

EA81s (i.e. 1.8 L) from 1981 on in the hatches and brats. The wagons and sedans switched to EA82 motors in 1985. The cut corner on the valve cover of an EA81 indicates a hydraulic lifter engine; rectangular cover indicates solid lifters. You can tell whether EA71 or EA81 by checking the casting near the front, top, center of the motor.

Aside from the yard in Tacoma, there's another on Hwy 99 in Lynnwood (just north of 188th) and one in Olympia across from the Airport (off exit 101).

A major difference with the EA81 manual transmission motor is the clutch and flywheel. 2WD clutch has a 7-7/8" diameter disk; 4WD is 8-7/8" diameter disk. Not a problem, just switch flywheels and clutch as needed. Carb and vacuum lines might need some finagling, but it's not a major difference.

Matt, so sorry for that.

Yes

I'll bring some!