edrach

A neighbor has a '90 legacy with automatic transmission and the tranny is shot (metal shavings in the front diff oil). Anyway, would the 4 speed automatic out of a '98 Impreza work? Would it just be a bolt in, or will special modifications be needed? Will the old ECU get confused with a 4 speed auto rather than the 3 speed? Worst case, can he use the center diff in his old 3 speed? Are the front ratios the same or will he also need to swap in the rear diff to match?

Try WJM on the Board; he can get you polypropalene bushings. Good luck getting the old bushings out.

Shawnsbrat is correct; either will work and hook up the same to the coil. I personally like the Hitachi better; I haven't had too much trouble with the Hitachi and since I don't want to double my inventory of used parts I only use Hitachis. I can't make a comparison on reliability.

NipponDenso distributer has what looks like two little square boxes for the igniter module. Hitachi distributer has an ignition module the looks like a deformed horseshoe. From your description, I'd say you had the ND type. 1982 had breakerless ignitions on the Brat and early wagons.

Where is your timing set? Whose gas are you using.

Sounds like you have the answer in the previous post. Considering the work you had done recently, you might find that the vehicle speed sensor is unplugged or not properly secured. Considering your location in Vancouver, you ought to consider SIR (richierich) in Portland. I'd trust his shop over any dealer anytime.

If you find a shop that REALLY knows your engine you might save a bit of money there. However, with ccrinc you get a warranty and the assurance that you have someone who KNOWS our engines. Judging from your earlier posts there may be an internal problem that might not show up in a standard rebuild. I'd go with the ccrinc engine if it were my choice and I wanted to spend that much (you're close to looking for a replacement car in my humble opinion). Pulling and installing your own engine is quite easy if you have a friend and engine hoist. Good luck with it.

Pulleys should be changed if they feel bad once you have it apart. Tensioner can be reset if you have a very sturdy vise. You could get a used tensioner at the local pull a part yard and re-set it yourself and re-use it (they don't wear out).

Old story...pay me now or pay me later. Best independent shop in the area is Smart Service. http://www.smart-service.com/

I would suggest buying OEM parts only for that repair (www.1stsubaruparts.com is a good source for parts). Also, figure that with the mileage you have that it would likely be a good time to replace the water pump; the labor is the same and it's not likely to last until the next time you do the belt. It's also likely that one or more idlers will need replacement. The $40 estimate is for the timing belt and nothing else I suspect. Good luck with it.

Finally out and posted at http://www.scca.org/_FileLibrary/File/2006RallyCrossRules.pdf

A tentative schedule for the 2006 season showed up on ORG's website recently. First event is on March 26 at the Hillsboro site in conjunction with another Paul Eklund RallyX school. The rest of the year's schedule is: May 7 June 11 July 2 July 16 Aug 20 Sept 17 Oct 8 Check the ORG website for updates, changes, and locations. http://www.oregonrally.com/ http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/marchschool.pdf

Also consider pulling the engine rather than the tranny. Using an engine hoist and working from the top is usually easier than using a transmission jack and working from the bottem. Check prices online (two local dealers sell online at a discount, do a search for them) and price them over the 'phone NAPA, Schucks, B&B, and Bow-Wow (if you call Bow-wow in Lynnwood, ask for Chris...he's USMB friendly). Good luck with the repair.

I didn't notice any decrease with them on my Legacy wagon, but they're 15s and not 16s. Maybe you're driving a bit more agressively.:burnout:Also, does your gas carry 10% ethanol for the winter season? That drags my gas mileage down about 10%.

I'll second the Kuhmo. They also have a rally tread that might work for you; certainly more robust than most tires.

I'm up for a weekend event too. Sunday would work for me and Tex could get a look at my weber setup if he likes. Tonight is out for me; I have another comitment.

If the body is rust free, it's certainly worth the $100. Interiors are easy to come by if you have a Pull a Part near you. Also, check the gearbox and take it for a drive. Local PAP yards here charge under $200 for a complete EA81 engine.

Tex, I'd be glad to bring my Brat over to you. A picture (or the real thing) is worth a thousand words. However, Skip's description is as good (or better) as any. If it's not in the USRM, it should be. Anyhow, I'd go down to Bow Wow in Lynnwood and get the linkage adapter from them and only costs $10; you'll waste more than $10 worth of your time trying to fab something different. I also have a neat trick for plugging the ASV ports....I bought brass plugs which are a perfect interference fit inside the ASV and pressed them into the pipe. It's esthetically pleasing and does the job quite well.

If it's a sticky lifter, I'd suspect the more you run the engine the better it will get. A little seafoam might do the trick. Also, switch the manifold if you haven't already....qman's got the right idea there. It's unlikely you have a '97 or later EJ22 with a bent valve; and before '97 they were non-interference engines. If my EJ22 (a '91) has an EGR valve, I can't find it and I doubt they would add one on the newer engines. Lastly from what I know of JDM engines, they are usually pulled at 30 to 50K miles, well before any timing belt would normally break. My JDM engine came from a car that was "retired" with a bad transmission and had a documented 50K on it since it was installed out of the crate. Went into my car and has performed like a charm ever since; I just needed to replace a faulty canister purge control solenoid and run a can of seafoam in the gas to clear up a sticky IAC valve and all the odd idling and CELs were gone.

I have the answer for you. Go to the Emissions place on 6th Ave. South (about 1/2 south of Spokane St. On an adjacent street right next door to the emissions place you'll find a van parked with emissions testing gear inside. The tech is named Warren and he charges $40 plus tax to get your rig to pass emissions; if it doesn't pass he doesn't charge. He is state certified and very good at his job. If he can't get it to pass he can usually tell you what you need to change to get it through. I've run a dozen or more "beaters" and a few old Subes through his service. Make sure you bring the Failed emissions form. You can't go wrong with him.

I'd try releasing the hood release with a screwdriver first; if that doesn't work for you, I guess you can try removing the grill.

Legacy777 might know what that's for.

I have a set of the Premier wheels with centercaps and a set of the 13" Notched without centercaps if you are interested. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html

The 165s should even fit a 4.5" rim.

Find a car with rear disks (any turbo, some GL-10s, some XT4s, any RX). Take the hub, rotor, caliper, old pads, AND backing plate. I also disconnect the brakeline near the rear swingarm so I can re-use the old brakeline. Save all the hardware in case you lose some working on your car. Make sure that you get the 2WD or 4WD backing plate to match your hatch (the backing plates are different). Take some rust penetrant like PB blaster and a knife to scrape off the rear hub before trying to pull the backing plate; this is usually the hardest part of the job. Good luck with the conversion; you'll find it's pretty easy and will be a great improvement to your Hatch.