edrach

I bought it from B&B Auto Parts (a local chain) and I think if was the Cyberdyne guage. And I did it just to insure that I don't overheat the RV's tranny; there's a tendency to use the Overdrive whenever possible and the downside of that is the potential to overheat the ATF in OD.

I recently did this on my Toyota RV. I couldn't find a sensor that mounted on the pan (besides, there were significant concerns about where and very low clearances). I found a sensor/guage kit for around $60 where the guage mounted in-line with the tubing which carried ATF to the front cooler in the radiator. The only trick there was deciding which line was the "hot" line going into the cooler so as not to mount it in the "cool" line returning from the radiator. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward installation. I found it useful on the RV because of the amount of weight of the motorhome on an engine/tranny originally designed for a light weight truck. I also added a cooler which was even easier to install.

Sounds like a flakey ground to me.

Connie, On the older subarus it's not uncommon to find a bad connection associated with the ignition switch. Next time you have the plastic off on the steering column, take a look at the ignition switch (opposite end of the ignition lock). There are four wires on the switch which go into a plastic sleeve and about 6 inches later end up in a plastic connector (often pink in color) which plugs into the wiring harness. Examine the plastic connector and see if a portion of it is discolored brown or black; if so, you have a bad connection there. Easiest fix is to go to a wrecking yard and get another cable/switch assembly and replace it. Oddly enough, almost any model will have the same setup; I once had one pulled from an '84 wagon and it fit (and worked) in Austion's Impreza when he was picking it up! This might help some of the odd ignition related problems, but won't necessarily fix your stereo. I think that checking some grounds might help that. Also make sure the stereo is grounded separately; sometimes the ground return is left to the antenna cable which is a poor grounding....use a separate ground wire to a known good grounding spot under the dash if you haven't got one already. Good luck.

Don't egg him on! He'll build a periscope!! :lol: Dive! Dive!

Austin, I've always thought you were smarter than that!

Your original bulbs were 45W/55W; that's about 4 and 5 amps respectively; I wouldn't think you'd need to add any fuses if you're using the existing wiring.

Thanks for the thought; I'm working on it a little at a time evenings, but will try to get the engine actually installed and running this Saturday. If you want to come by, I'm sure we could feed you breakfast. Drop me a PM and I'll send you the address as well as 'phone number.

Having just done this on my new (new to me) '84 Brat, the cost for lock cylinder and matching key came to $133.17. Spendy, but worth it in my mind. I don't believe I said anything about this fix not lasting very long. The new lock cylinder has metal innards throughout and not the plastic stops of the original which fail after 15 to 20 years of use; the new lock cylinder should last forever now. If anyone wants the address of the locksmith that did the work, it's Lockworks, 16510 Redmond Way, Redmond, WA 98052; 800-413-9085. Ask for Steve who is the Brat expert now.

Zap came by and chatted; I'm was making good progress until I snapped a bolt pulling the water pump off the replacement engine. It took me a while getting that off. Sorry, I didn't catch the post and I would have given xoomer directions. Hopefully, I can finish prepping the engine tomorrow after work and drop it in before it gets dark.

Sorry, love to do it, but I pulled the engine out of the Brat yesterday and I'm hoping to get the replacement installed today. I've got to take advantage of the fine weather we've had so far this weekend.

For what it covers, I've always felt that the Bentley manual was the best "bang for the buck." It covers all models up to '84 starting I believe with '78. It reads like a condensed version of the FSM with all the right detail and written in english rather than technical jargon.

Do they have an email address or 800#? I'm always looking for new yards to get parts from.

Did the lenses yellow, or are the bulbs dim? On the older cars, the wiring alone may cause enough of a voltage drop to cause the bulbs to be dim. If you change bulbs and they are still dim, you might consider re-wiring the lamps and running them off a relay. I've got a link somewhere in my computer for information on that; I'll try to find it.

Here's the run order: PGT and Open in the afternoon. http://www.oregonrally.com/rallycross.cfm

Geoff, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope she's okay.

Geoff, you can save yourself trouble by just mounting the ignition switch in some easily accessible but not obvious location and then use a screwdriver to turn on the ignition and start the car using the existing switch. Just make sure the mechanical stop for the steering lock is definitely deactivated.

Sorry about the rally car; but glad you're coming anyway. Sounds cool, I don't mind leaving the jack behind. I'll be staying at the same hotel as before. See you there.

I added a wiring harness and relays to my '91 Legacy to handle the extra current and install 55/100W bulbs to replace the wimpy 45/55W standard bulbs (also, don't get the "blue" ones; they are not an improvement). I bought a pre-made harness from Competition Limited in Pinckney, MI and it took me less than 30 minutes to install it. You can always make your own harness and relays if you know what you're doing but the $45 I spent for the pre-made harness was worth every penny in saved time.

Qman has the right idea for making a new key from the numbers; I've done this for a number of my cars. Your idea will work providing you make sure the steering lock doesn't accidently slip and lock your steering.

I use Tuf-oil on the recommendation of the local locksmith. What you describe is a common problem with the early 80's lock cylinders of all subarus (and nissans and mazdas). The only real fix is to by pass the ignition lock assembly or replace the lock cylinder. I've had it done on our older '84 Brat and the new one needs it also. Locksmith had a heck of a time finding a new lock cylinder both times. I'm waiting for an appointment to have the newer Brat done also. Pricey job; pretty close to $100 to do it right (new lock cylinder of the later design that won't fail again; and have it re-keyed so the old key still works the ignition AND the doors).

If you want to do another engine swap, let me know; I'm just up the road in Bothell.

Is it still available? I'm sure someone on this side of the mountains would "screen" if for you to see if it's worth the two hour trip from Wenatchee to buy it. (I'd look at it for you if no one else volunteers).

Now here's what I think you're looking for; with luck it's still available: http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/102842371.html

You're getting good advice here. Walk away and bide your time. There will be the perfect car for you in the near future. Just wait for it, it'll show up.