edrach

If it passes in 2012, that'll be your last required emissions test for your '87.

Rene, welcome to the Board. I love your cars. I also like how clean they are. I find Europeans are so much more conscientious about keeping them clean and shiny. So obvious that you believe in that too.

Not quite correct. I'm not sure at what year, that switches; but later model cars are tested in the opposite year. For example, our '99 Forester is due for retest in 2012; yet our '84 Brat was tested in even years (until the 25 year exemption took place). And the OP's '87 GL is apparently due in Feb. 2012. If he passes with his next test, he'll be past the 25 year exemption in 2014.

In that case do the emissions test now. Then add the weber shortly thereafter; you'll have two years to go before the next emissions test and you'll fall under the 25 year exemption if it's active in your area.

Good advice from previous poster. Anyone who tells you the VC is not replaceable as a separate portion of the transmission doesn't know what he's talking about. I had mine done on our '99 forester last year (I'm way past doing my own work now). Good news is that it's about 2 hours labor from a good mechanic. Bad news was I couldn't find a used working VC and the new unit was $550US from Subaru.

There are many grades of boots. Napa seems to have a stronger more heavy duty boot than most. I've found that the inner boot on the side just above the catalytic converter is more prone to failing due to the heat of the catalytic converter. I fabbed a heat shield to re-direct cooling air over the boot and deflect the heat from the cat as much as possible. Good advice from the previous poster. If you have a torn boot already, reboot as soon as possible to prevent actual joint failure. Used axles with good grease and boots have been more reliable for me than newly re-manufactured axles from many of the after market sources. As for re-manned axles, MWE seems to have the best reputation here on the USMB.

If you haven't put the weber on already, you're welcome to get an emissions test any time, even if it's not due. A passed test document is good for one year and will get you past the 25 year exemption if it's still law and if you pass the test sometime in January 2012 or later. But then again, if you don't pass you're not obligated to get your car passed until you renew your tabs.

Caboobaroo has it correct; although I think the 25 year rule is statewide; it's certainly that way where I live in Snohomish county. You can find out more here: http://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/emissions.htmlOdd, this URL doesn't consider 25+ year old cars exempt. Maybe that exemption has changed. I certainly hope not. I went looking for local emissions rules because some rural areas (sorry I consider Spanaway rural---no offense intended) are exempt from emissions testing.

Good job. Thanks for the follow up explanation. So frustrating to never get a follow up explanation with a successful repair.

Air cleaners are cheap. Pull yours and look at it. Not likely it's pristine clean after a year (even if you have low mileage). A clogged filter will certainly make the car run rich.

Having driven two Brats for many years with a weber, I can verify that a properly tuned weber will pass the sniffer test with flying colors. Are you local to Seattle? If so, I can pass on the information about the local emissions specialist who will likely be able to get your car to pass emissions for a lot less than the $150. If testing is still required on your car, run it through just to see where you stand. Spanaway looks close enough to Seattle. Sorry I wasn't paying attention earlier.

Something I hadn't asked you earlier. Do you have comprehensive insurance on your car? In other words, would you have been covered for damage if you were to collect from your own insurance company? Your own insurance might be more reasonable in determining the "actual cash value" of your car. After collecting from them, they will go after re-imbursement from the other guy's insurance to recover their payments. All depends what you're insured for and how well you know (or can deal with) your own insurance agent.

It's 9:02 here on the west coast, so I'd like to be the first to wish all our east coast members a Merry Christmas. I'll be sleeping soundly when the 25th comes to the west coast and wish everyone a Merry Christmas in advance.

I'm pretty sure it's the same for '84 and I believe I have that manual. If no one else gets it to you before next Tuesday, I'll bring it to work with me and scan the wiring diagram for you and send it off by email. If you still haven't gotten a response by Monday evening, drop me a PM with your email address and I'll remember to take the shop manual to work with me.

And then there's the fact that which axle will fit the conversion. I have a '82 Brat with the rears done already and I'm still trying to figure out the easiest (best? cheapest?) way to get the fronts done.

I've had alloy 15" and 16" wheels done. Place I go to is in an industrial area and has a sand blasting shop across the street. GD is correct about glass beading for alloy but sandblasting is okay for steel. It was about $20/wheel to prep them for the powder coat and ran $60/wheel to powder coat the wheels. Find a local shop; there must be someone in your area that does this type of work. You won't be sorry. I had a set of wagon wheels done 10 years ago for our first Brat and they still look good after a little bit of clean up.

Check the Brats that have been posted on CL and the USMB CL forum to get some idea. If your Brat is as clean as you say, $4K to 6K is about right. Before the economy went sour, it would have been above $8K. However, a pic or two would help a lot.

From today's Seattle craigslist: http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/2763187055.html

Another project Hatch: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126793 And another: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126229 This one is 5 pages deep in the Subaru Vehicles for sale forum. Forum is 55 pages deep. Should be some decent comparables in there somewhere.

Another local Brat: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/ctd/2746774534.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128457 I don't know why I didn't suggest the Cars for sale forum right here on the USMB. If you search far enough you might find some decent comparables. This '85 Hatch in Colorado looks like a decent car to move your parts into. Price is right at $750 although it makes a poor comparable for your case.

It was sold out of Iowa; I was wondering if it was his. Maybe. Doesn't look like his from what I read; unless he sold it back in October and this guy is flipping it. Interesting that he mentions it was originally a California car but it's lived in Iowa since 1995. However, it's one of the cleanest Brats I've seen that has also been on the road and in regular use.

Here's an '86 GL Brat on ebay which is getting close to $4000. It's essentially the same as your '87 wagon except for the body. It would be a stretch to convince the insurance company to use this as a comparable, but both models are similarly rare and hard to find now and NADA has always listed the 3 door hatch as more valuable than the Brat of the same year. It can't hurt to save this information and use it if you need to go to small claims court to recover a fair price for your car. That being said, ebay is another place to search for comparables for your car. Print out any you find because ebay drops the listing about 3 months after the sale of any car. Sorry, left out the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-Subaru-BRAT-GL-truck-baja-/300631654385?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item45ff0afff1#ht_500wt_1131

Retail is the value you should get for the car. You will be paying retail for your replacement and that's where a fair evaluation should be. And in the condition I suspect it was in, average to high (not low) should be applied. That's why I suggested the carfax/autocheck since it gives a comparative index number to reflect the age/condition/mileage of the car which should help push the condition toward the high retail figure.

Really depends on the adjuster and the insurance company. A major insurance carrier will usually have their own adjusters and can be relatively fair. Some of the "off brand" insurance carriers (don't EVER get hit by a taxi driver--their insurance is generally the cheapest they can buy) hire "independent" adjusters who are asked to minimize the cost to the company. But zukiru brings up a good point. Make sure the car is clean inside and doesn't look like a "junkpile." Also have the receipts and maintenance records available that shows the car has been well cared for.

Also, get a carfax or autocheck report to help establish condition. Here's a Seattle area junkpile for $500! http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2759475312.html You might try searching a few west coast cities for a similar hatchback to yours. Best chances for finding a rust free version for you. Last time I saw one in the Seattle CL it was listed for $2750.