edrach

Yesterday's event was pretty cool. Actually pretty hot...warmest day I've seen in ages...if it didn't hit 100 degrees, it came pretty close. Also, no water truck was available for the event so the dust was pretty heavy. Pretty fast course with some nasty slow stuff thrown in to keep you honest. I left after my morning run so I don't have any real idea how our local group did. All the information I have is that XSNRG took first in PGT and I took a 2nd in Truck/SUV (lost by seconds to a Honda CR-V.....grrrrr.....my own fault since I overcooked the slow stuff and lost more time than I should have; just a plain lack of discipline on my part). Here are some photos: http://www.pdxsports.com/photos/showindex.asp?folder=200508_RallyX

If you search the archives, you'll find quite a bit of information by cameron in Australia. He's probably the most knowledgable person on the Board in this regard. He hasn't posted for a long time and I'm not sure of his email address any longer, but you could give him a try. ---ed--- PS: He's the one who rebuilt the DFV I was just talking about. He did a fine job of it too.

I just put a DFV on my son's brat; works just fine and I actually had less trouble with the linkage and other interferences than with the DGAV on my brat. Although the DFV is physically smaller, I believe the throat sizes are the same and it certainly improved the power and gas mileage on my son's brat.

I'm going to leave this to someone who's done the Impreza, but the Legacy doesn't require a puller at all; the splines just slide in....much easier than the Loyale series of cars. Wait for a definitive reply before spending money on a puller.

Intermittant jumpy tach is almost always a worn bushing and play in the distributor if you have checked the ignition wiring and sparkplug wires and found them okay. It's easy to check the bushing; remove the distributor cap and wiggle the rotor shaft side to side. If it has play, that's what causes the jumpy tach; I agree with Tom on Philbin. If you need the Brat as your daily driver, pull another distributor at the wrecking yard and send that in for rebuild with the pertainent info to Philbin about your car. If you have a choice, get a Hitachi distributor rather than the NipponDenso (my personal preference). Tom is also correct about the torsion adjuster location to raise/lower the rear suspension somewhat. The front suspension can be adjusted by the two nuts at the center of the the front strut on each side of the car. All those adjustments are probably pretty frozen by now and might not want to adjust easily. If you can't resolve the problems with the carb, replacing it with a weber 32/36 DGAV will resolve that if you can do it without running afoul of the emissions testing in your state. Each state is different in what's allowed. I'd suggest a manual to get you some info. How to Keep Your Subaru Alive is a good basic manual if you're not familiar with the car. Haynes and Chilton's are pretty much useless unless you have nothing better. The Factory Service Manual will have more information than you need but is difficult to decipher sometimes. There is a Bentley manual which is a fine re-write of the FSM and is quite useful. Both the Bentley manual and HTKYSA (1st edition good until '84; 2nd edition good until '88) show up on ebay or on the USMB; try the used books sections of Amazon or Powell's or any other book dealer. I wouldn't spend more than $20 for HTKYSA (less for 1st edition) or more than $40 for the Bentley. Sometimes you can score a copy for less (I have:) ). Search the USMB for more info on them. There is a copy of the HTKYSA on CD floating around if you can find one. Good luck with your fine Brat.

Plenty of room; just remount your tires on the new wheels and chuck or give the old wheels to Karin!

The '85 and up wagon wheels have a chronic problem with bending or going out of "true"; any of the alloy wheels that fit are a huge improvement.

No, you can't paint over it. You can buy a special paint to paint over it and then apply the colored paint of your choice.

They were introduced in 1986 if my memory serves me; it used to be that the part number was posted on the wheels section of the subarus of the 80s link but I don't see it there anymore. McBrat would likely know.

In the quest to find out a key for determining where the EJ22 interference engine can be externally identified, I found the following numbers on the vehicle plate mounted on the drivers side of the engine compartment over the wheel well (thanks rallykeith): Engine numbers: EJ22EAW1BC '91 Legacy EJ22ECM5GB '96 Impreza EJ22ECW6FZ '97 Impreza Transmission numbers: TY752VA1AA '91 Legacy wagon TY752VABBA '96 Impreza wagon TY752VA5AA '97 Impreza wagon I know some of the info here is manufacture year and which plant actually built that part but there should be more info encoded in the numbers but I haven't found any reference to this in any of the FSMs I have. Anyone have any more numbers or information on this?

From the ORG Board: Hey all! I noticed a question or two floating around about events going on this weekend, so I thought I would try and bring you the latest info about the Rally 'Round PIR and the next ORG RallyCross, both going on this weekend. Rally 'Round PIR - Saturday, August 13. Registration will open at 11:30 (or sooner) at or near the gates to PIR. Just look for the orange SCCA Checkpoint sign. Cost: $20 for SCCA members, $25 for nonmembers The rally will consist of a regularity run around Portland Internation Raceway. The first run will be at the beginning of the event, starting at around 12:45, and your 'matching' run will be after about a 4 hour tour through down the Oregon side of the Columbia before crossing over the river at Longview, and then running back down to the Ridgefield area. After a brief transit on I-5, we will be back at PIR to finish up, and then it's on to the Oregon Region All-Club Party, taking place at PIR, where we will enjoy a BBQ put on by the region, and the TCRacers Blue's Band will provide the tunes for the evening. And since you will be already in town, why not stick around for the ORG RallyCross #4, happening on Sunday, August 14. (Or, you can come down early for RRPIR, either way...) Morning Session: G2, G5, Production, and T/SUV. Tech & Reg - 8:00 - 9:00; Drivers meeting at 9:15, FCO at 9:30 Afternoon Session: Production GT and Open. Tech & Reg - 12:30-1:30; Driver's meeting at 1:45; FCO at 2:00 If you are not sure what class you run in, please see the info under RallyCross at www.oregonrally.com I hope to see you this weekend!! Matt -- Matt Tabor, Customer Service : Tabor Rally Team Visit us online at: www.taborrallyteam.com "We demand rigidly defined areas of doubt and uncertainty!" -- Vroomfondel

Good thought Keith. I checked our two cars and this is what I found: '91 Legacy Engine: EJ22EAW1BC '97 Impreza Engine: EJ22ECW6FZ '96 Impreza Engine: EJ22ECM5GB I went looking through the FSM for the '92 Legacy I have and although they have a detailed explanation of the VIN meaning, there was nothing to describe what the letters mean in the engine designation. Maybe others can post their numbers to see if we can make any sense out of them. Better yet, anyone know how to decode the numbers?

There is a red turbo sedan there (I pulled the rear disks off it a few weeks ago); the turbo is gone but I'm not sure about the headers.

If they pull the parts for you, the prices are about right; if you're pulling them, it's a bit pricey. The 8 hole wheels will fit your car and you'll find them more reliable than the spoked wagon wheels (they tend to go out of "true" easily and cause a little shimmy that never seems to go away no matter how well the wheels are balanced). If they pull the parts for you, make sure they give you as much of the hardware as possible; you never know when you'll need a bolt or nut (especially the lower bolts on the fender are usually badly rusted and should be replaced). Good luck with it.

You knew I was coming before you offered the parts bribe. I wouldn't miss it either way.

Boy at that price it might be worthwhile to have you buy some and ship them to us. A new weber kit (32/36 DGAV) runs about $375US. Used ones sell for $50US and up depending on condition. Good luck with your installation. I just completed installing one on my son's Brat just 10 minutes ago.

Glad you got it going. What part do you really need? I might be able to pick it up at the Lynnwood PAP; or I might have the part you need in my "stash." Let me know.

What, or who, are you expecting to catch?

Oh, good; an address to write to. I love it; thanks.

The location you describe, I come up with 262641 for my '91 Legacy. This sounds like the s/n location. Maybe the 11111 and 22222 might be the identifier between the non-interference/interference engines. It would be interesting to see what others have found in that location and which engine they think they have.

Right behind the alternator just to the right of the "EJ22" in the casting. Numbers are in two lines with what I think is the 5 digit s/n in the 2nd line.

I always re-use the ones I pull with the axle. I have bought new ones from Smart Service in Shoreline in the past.

Highway 99 in Lynnwood, about 1/4 miles north of the traffic light with 188th on the west side of the highway across the street from Bent Bike.

The easiest and cheapest way I can think of to change the u-joint is to head to the nearest PAP yard and remove the entire two piece driveshaft with the center bearing carrier and just replace it. Do it quickly on your car since when you pull the driveshaft from the rear of the transmission, you'll loose some of the tranny gearoil.

Donny, good to hear you are alive and well. Missoula is a nice place to be. Best of luck finding work.