edrach

Your turbo is fuel injected and you should pass emissions without any trouble. You'd be getting a check engine light if the emissions are far enough off to fail. Just make sure your air cleaner is new and not causing you to run too rich and make sure the catalytic converter is good and hot when you arrive at emissions; run it up and down the highway before you go.

That y-pipe allows hot air for the carburetor to be sucked up into the air cleaner intake through a corrogated aluminum hose. Helps in the winter time when the flapper in the air cleaner housing redirects warm air into the carb until the engine warms up.

Well, it didn't look like a Portland neighborhood either.

Noah, yea I know; I just had to pull your chain a bit.

Considering the PNWSEC and Ralli-tek decals in the rear window, I'd say it's from Portland.

Did you replace the sensor that is mounted on the front, near the center of the engine block, or the temp SWITCH on the radiator?

I've been using Castrol 10W-30 for close to 35 years (first VW products, then BMW, and now Subaru) and OEM filters at 2500 mile change interval. My cars usually last 250K miles or more. Nice to see that Suburb Service agrees with me; not that I'd go there for service.

I guess I can make it if I can get on the road by about 5AM.

Lynnwood has two new EA81 wagons and a new 2WD Legacy. The '84 wagon is metallic grey with a great body, 162K, and 4 speed d/r tranny. The '83 is metallic red with cool pin striping, 2wd, with 5 speed manual; looks really sharp; engine looks like crap. I didn't get too good a look at the Legacy since it was being ravaged by three people.

Try www.carbsunlimited.com.

Mark, what time were you planning on meeting at exit 88? My entry is in the mail and I'll plan on getting there fairly early. I'm not going down the night before since a two hour plus drive down before the event isn't going to tax me that badly.

From the flyer for the Brooklyn events (6/25 and 7/30): Entry fee: $30 (3 runs minimum) Registration and Tech: 8:00am Driver's meeting: 9:45am First car off: 10:00am Morning run: Production, Production GT, and SUV/Truck Afternoon run: Group5, Group2, and Open See www.historicbrooklyntavern.com for local information.

Is it a solid lifter engine or hydraulic? If hydraulic, don't even think about adjusting them unless it's absolutely necessary. Solid lifters I would certainly adjust your valve clearances.

Sorry, Craig; I made my estimate based on the fact it's exit 88 off I-5 (i.e. 88 miles north of the Oregon/Washington border) and then about 15 miles west. I-5 is strange. It's only 180 south for me to get to Portland, but I can seldom make it in less than 4 hours.

Pull a part in Lynnwood has a Legacy in the yard now and another going in soon. Probably cost you around $30 plus your time to pull it.

I've gotten around a possible shortage for my Legacy by picking up a good looking used one at Pull a Part. I installed it on my Legacy right away and it has worked fine for the last six months. I put the original working alternator on the shelf in my garage so I know I have a spare working one if I need it. Cost me all of $20 to do that.

Make sure the radiator has clear access to cooling air; there shouldn't be anything in front of the radiator, or any dirt or mud stuck near the bottem. Radiators on the early EA82 cars are just barely able to disperse the heat when new; older ones just tend to be less efficient. I would spend the money toward a new radiator (around $110 mailorder from www.radiator.com); spending $30 or $40 for a flush is just a waste of money that would go a long way toward the price of a new radiator. The tipoff to the rad being bad is to get out on the highway and watch your temp guage. When the engine is warmed up and you're cruising at around 55, the temp needle should be around the middle of the guage and it'll stay there no matter how fast you go....60, 65, 70 or more. If the car runs hotter at the higher speeds, it's time to replace the radiator. Pretty definitive test and pretty reliable. If you're still going to replace the thermostat, go get one from a dealer; for some reason the OEM thermostats work better than most of the aftermarket brands. The little item on the lower passenger side of the radiator is a temperature switch. It's only purpose in life is to turn on the fan when the engine gets hot and you're not moving and running cooling air through the rad, like waiting at the traffic light. If the fan doesn't turn on when the temp guage shows 5/8th, I'd think about replacing that switch also. Also make sure that there is a solid connection to the temperature switch; sometimes the fan doesn't come on because of a faulty connection. If you have the single terminal switch in that location, make sure the grounding wire from the radiator to the frame is present; if not, that's another reason the temp switch might not always turn on the fan. Good luck with it. If you're in a hot area of the country a double row rad would be the best, otherwise a new single row rad will serve you well.

Radiators on the early EA82 cars are just barely able to disperse the heat when new; older ones just tend to be less efficient. I would spend the money toward a new radiator (around $110 mailorder from www.radiator.com); spending $30 or $40 for a flush is just a waste of money that would go a long way toward the price of a new radiator. The tipoff to the rad being bad is to get out on the highway and watch your temp guage. When the engine is warmed up and you're cruising at around 55, the temp needle should be around the middle of the guage and it'll stay there no matter how fast you go....60, 65, 70 or more. If the car runs hotter at the higher speeds, it's time to replace the radiator. Pretty definitive test and pretty reliable. If you're still going to replace the thermostat, go get one from a dealer; for some reason the OEM thermostats work better than most of the aftermarket brands. Hook up the temp switch on the side of the rad. It's only purpose in life is to turn on the fan when the engine gets hot and you're not moving and running cooling air through the rad, like waiting at the traffic light. Good luck with your new car and welcome to the group.

I'll be gone most of this weekend, but might be able to help you with them on late Sunday if you haven't already found someone to help you out. Otherwise Monday night would work for me; figure an hour or so to do both sides unless it needs rotors (have someone check first in case you need rotors); altho I suspect your grinding is coming from the rear drums (time for a rear disk conversion if that's the case).

Just a suggestion; the flyer is great and works for posting at auto parts stores, dealers, sponsors, etc. Specific info could be done in black and white listing location, campground size, events, etc. Last year the black and white complimented the color flyer very well and was a handout wherever a poster was displayed. The b&w printed two to a 8-1/2x11 page and was cut in half; worked great for slipping under a windshield wiper in the parking or as a handout where posted.

You're embarrasing us....but I don't mind! Best of luck with the coupe; it sure is pretty with the alloy wheels. If you ever find a slave, they polish up real nice....but it's hours and hours of work.

Probably dirt or stuff on the backside of the hub letting you tighten down to the proper torque. Then as the dirt and stuff came out, the "nut came loose."

EA82 has two types; EA81 has only one. Parts store didn't look up proper year or engine type for you. My offer of a water pump is still available.

I believe the 2.2 engine would swap relatively easily; I'm not partial to the 2.5L since I don't like interference engines. Welcome to the board and good look with the Impreza.

Look at the p/n on the body and search it at www.1stsubaruparts.com and it should tell you which version you have; I'd bet it's Hitachi. While you're at it you could search the cost of getting those parts mail order.